Re: PHOTO: I've got the blues
From: John I Jones <jijones@ix.netcom.com>
***WARNING - LONG POST ON PHOTOGRAPHY*
Delete at your pleaure.
Chris Darlington wrote:
>
> From: Chris Darlington <chris.darlington@sympatico.ca>
>
> Christopher,
>
> Hello , The problem is not the film stock that you're using , the
> inaccurate colors are caused by improper exposure . Basically what
> happens then you take a reflected meter reading through the lens on a
> dark flower or anything that is dark , the camera meter assumes , as it
> is programmed to give general exposures , that a a wide aperture will be
> necessary to to give what the camera thinks is correct exposure , thus ,
> seriously overexposing your slide. The trick is to measure the light
> source and not the light reflecting from the flower.
>
Well certainly getting the right exposure is very important, and using Spot
metering (available on a lot of cameras these days) should do a lot better
than the average metering generally used for subjects that do not contrast so
much (lightwise) with the background.
The problem (technically) that I have with the grey card is that it can't
change the characteristics of the source light (e.g., blue light). The
scattering caused by the air molecules causes the sky to reflect more blue .
It looks blue because more blue light (than red light) hits your eye. I don't
think the grey card can adapt for that, but the 80B filter (also , I think,
called the blue sky filter) can. (or at least can help)
I went back to the archives and found a post by Sharon McAllister that I think
probably is even a better solution. (there seems to be a bit of a problem with
the archives at the moment. Chris will have it fixed in a little while)
*****
From: Sharon McAllister <73372.1745@compuserve.com>
I'm still playing catch-up with e-mail, but haven't seen any mention of the
use of color charts in the discussion of how to obtain faithful reproduction
of the blue tones in iris so thought I should chime in.
I shoot the MacBeth Color Chart as the first frame of each roll, and note that
fact when sending the film to the lab. The lab uses that chart as a reference
and I get good color balance. If a color still doesn't come out right, that
frame can be reprinted with corrections if accompanied by the frame with the
chart on it. It's a standard chart used by photographers -- not the RHS
chips. This is NOT something the one-hour labs will do, but I've had
excellent results from the Kodak lab I've used.
Most of my photography is for seedling records, so consistency is extremely
important. I make a point of shooting the entire roll of film under similar
lighting conditions, and even try to shoot at the same time of day to make
day-to-day comparisons easier.
Blue is the most challenging hue, although I also have problems in getting the
leaf-green markings on some aribreds to show up clearly. This is where the
RHS charts come in. When I select a seedling, I use the RHS charts in
recording its description -- if the picture doesn't closely approximate those
chips, I know there's a problem.
*****
> One last thing , if the sun is particularly harsh , find something to
> diffuse with , I once got my sister to stand on a picnic table with a
> white bed sheet to soften the effect of the subject matter.
Good idea. On bright reflective days I often just shade my iris subjects.
> PS, Kodachrome is the best film on the planet , the problem is that ASA
> 64 is slow and the ASA 200 was too grainy last time I checked.
There is a lot in the archives about photography, some of it from a Kodak
technical specialist by the name of Dennis Stoneburner (unfortunately no
longer on the list).
*****
Dennis Wrote:
A little bit of Kodak inside info.....if you think you need 200 speed
print film - rethink.....use 100 or 400 instead. 100 is great for grain
structure and color reproduction - of course a tripod is always helpful.
400 grain structure is as good as the 200 if not better.
There is a problem printing the 200 speed film - the programs used by the
hi speed printers are flakey for the 200 speed. Lots of hi-tech
mumbo-jumbo involved.
BTW - for slides - Ektachrome EPN-100 Professional film is the best - DO
NOT USE ELITE. EPN cost a bit more - but the results are worth it.
Kodachrome is wonderful for landscapes and "other" types of photos like
mushrooms etc. The reproduction of iris flowers by Kodachrome by the
average person is sub-par.
Dennis - zone 6-7 sorta
(Kodak techno geek)
*****
I seem to remember that he also said that ASA 200 film is just ASA100 (or
ASA400 - I can't remember which) that is pushed in the finishing and, as such,
is not a good idea. Get 100 or 400
All the professional films tend to be better, but of course are more expensive.
And yet another of Dennis' post from my archives:
*****> Amy Rupp wrote:
>
> > Is this true for *all* brands of 200 speed or just Kodak? And I
> > re-request an answer to the question "which film is best for (regular
> > 35mm) stills"?
>
>
> (NEW INFO - Not anymore. Seems like everyone is having trouble with this speed.
Kodak is considering pulling this from the market.) I will say that
FUJI has problems also - but of a different kind. The total explanation of
this problem would blow Tom's server to bits. Trust me, just remember not to
use 200.
>
> As far as 35mm "stills", My best results are with 100 speed Kodak Gold
> print film. I use a tripod almost everywhere I go. I cannot say that enough. If
you must purchase anything this year - if you
are serious - A good tripod is a must buy.
Can you get Agfa- film?
> >
> > Yep, though I think Consumer Reports ranked Afga film pretty poorly
> > compared with Kodak and Fuji.***************
>
> When film is made - it comes on a huge sheet and is cut into strips and
> lengths needed ie 35mm X 36 exposures. The process of "Coating" the
> micro thin emulsion on the base layer is the key to good quality film.
> Kodak holds many patents and trade secrets to this process. Others
> including Fuji, Agfa, and Scotch don't have the expertise so the results
> are micro thin peaks and valleys in the coating - results - film that
> changes from roll to roll even within a "batch". Kodak is the only
> company that provides the emulsion quality from roll to roll within a
> batch. Pros buy "bricks" of 20 rolls because they will get the same
> results within the brick. This same quality can be found in comsumer
> film found at Wal-Mart etc. Seattle Film Works film is Kodak Movie film
> which is good- but not what anyone who is serious about quality
> photographing should use. Don't cut yourself short when buying film or
> processing.
>
>
> SCHAFFCM@snybufaa.cs.snybuf.edu wrote:
>
> > Can the processing be done by your friendly local "cheep, two day service"?
>
> Find a GOOD photofinisher and stick with them. Sometimes "Cheap" 2 day
> places are very good. Stay away from the 1 hour places - these people
> are not trained to do good printing - they are lucky if they dust the
> file before printing.
>
*** I guess they were using out of date film then because Agfa is
> > better for blues and purples than any of the American films.***
>
> FYI - Film sold in the USA is not the same as sold in Canada or other
> places around the world. Another story!!!!!!This one would for sure
> blow Tom's server to heck. (briefly it's called 'Gray-tag' film. some is shipped
back into this country like drugs. Most is sold through NY City mail
order houses - so be careful)
Dennis Stoneburner
*****
Anyway probably more than you wanted to know.
John | "There be dragons here"
| Annotation used by ancient cartographers
| to indicate the edge of the known world.
________________________________________________
USDA zone 8/9 (coastal, bay)
Fremont, California, USA
Visit my website at:
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President, Westbay Iris Society
Director, Region 14 of the AIS
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