Re: Moving a lemon tree...


> marianoo@wanadoo.es wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Thanks to all those who replied regarding storm damage and yuccas a
> while back.
> 
> Unfortunately, it looks likely that I will have to move a lemon tree
> within next couple of weeks (due to building of a raised terrace on
> top of a water deposit, 30,000 litres).  It is only 4 or 5 years old,
> about 5 ft tall and 4ft branch spread with lots of flowers and fruit
> in various stages of maturity.  Any advice on how to lessen the
> disturbance to the tree and keep it growing happily again in its new
> position?  I've noticed really mature trees for sale in the local
> garden centres which I guess may have been transplanted from the
> ground into containers so maybe it is not such a big problem.

Hi Maria
Like Camellias and Rhododendrons, citrus trees have a fibrous root
system - in effect a fairly shallow dense pad of roots. This makes them
relatively easy to move successfully.

The more of the roots you can preserve the better, but how far out from
the stem you can go will largely depend on how big a root pad you can
actually lift and transport. The ideal would be to cut a circle around
the full 4 feet of the branch spread which would encompass most of the
corresponding root spread also, but if you have to take less, provided
the ends of the roots are cut with something sharp so that they are
pretty cleanaly severed, they will soon grow again into new soil.

As to depth, I think you would need to go down as near as possible to
18"  to preserve enough of the downward spread. 

To get the tree out you will need to dig a trench round the outside wide
enough to work in so you can undercut the ball once you get deep enough.
The best way to lift it once it is free (unless you can employ a
mechanical digger with a bucket)  will be to slide under it a strong
piece of plastic, canvas or burlap.

The new hole should of course be waiting to receive the tree once it is
ready to move. This will only  need to be just a few inches wider and
deeper than the ball you have excavated. and can have a little good soil
or compost put in the bottom. Before putting  this in, rough up the
sides and bottom of the hole with a fork. A very hard smooth interior
can tempt the tree to think it is in a pot and discourage it from
properly re-establishing itself. Once the tree is in in the hole fill in
round the sides with a bit more compost, taking care not to leave
airspaces.

Finally, after planting cover the entire root ball with a thin layer of
compost and a thicker pad of moisture-retentive mulch, and water very
thoroughly. Then  over the whole of the coming year make very sure the
tree does not run short of water at any time. I should say this is
crucial.

Oh, and one more thing. I think you would do well to help the tree by
first taking off most of the larger fruits and then cutting the majority
of the green  shoots back by about 1/3, so it can concentrate most of
its energies on growing replacement roots for the time being.
> 
> The weather here is still very unsettled with many people killed due
> to the flooding in many parts of Spain.  This sustained bad weather is
> very unusual for this part of Spain and even the farmers who always
> welcome the rain have had enough.

Sounds very like our late-lamented summer here floods and all, which was
very nearly a no-event! Autumn, thank goodnes seems to be following a
more normal pattern with cool rather dry but mainly sunny weather. We
sure do need that sun, both people and plants.
 
Moira

-- 
Tony & Moira Ryan
Wainuiomata - at the Southern tip of North Island, NZ,
Lat 41°15'S, Long 174°58'E (Antipodes of Spain/Southern France)




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