It had been being nurtured by me for two years and had the spring
before bloomed for the first time.
Later last summer a huge number of "water sprout" branches erupted from
right above the break and grew like crazy, up and back over the top of the
arbor and spilling everywhere. I didn't quite have the heart to attempt
to prune it or know exactly where to begin. This spring every single
branch was covered in long racemes of the lovely white flowers this form is
known for. Now, I'll have to go up into it and try and figure out how to
get it trained properly, even with this funny "stick" that protrudes from the
ground and from which all the branches begin.
Not the same situation as the original thread but I couldn't help
commenting. It was like a miracle to see this come back, grow so
rapidly, and look so beautiful this spring. I had purchased this form after
seeing the wonderful one that Dick Dunmire (retired as editor at Sunset
Western Garden Book) has on his back patio.
Carol
Why not call your "stick"by it's more correct
name? Your wisteria is simply growing on a standard (sounds better anyway!!).
Training is however very important at this stage as otherwise the plant will
become unmanageable and may even in time overload your arbour and bring it
down. The aim is to allow only as many main shoots as will comfortably cover
the framework and harden your heart to dispose of the others. In this early
very vigorous stage at least, this will tend to be a regular summer chore and
best done if you can manage it by pinching as soon as the extra
shoots can be recognised.(Pinching early is far better than cutting out later
as it does not put so much strain on the plant's energy. Make sure any shoot
you do not want is taken off right at the base. If it has any basal buds
left it may well regrow). One of the places you may get a lot of unwanted
sprouting is the base where you may get long runners trying to root down if
you are not watchful.
Incidentally, for those who want a wisteria and
don't want to have to erect a pergola, they can also be grown as free-standing
standards. For a year or two the plant is simply allowed to grow a bunch
of stems, which can be left on the ground or bunched on a rough framework.
Once the root is well established, when the plant is dormant choose the
strongest looking stem and cut the rest off at the base. This stem is then
headed back at a suitable level (ones I have seen have been standardized at
around six feet I think, but you could make it higher if you don't mind ladder
work).. Supply the stem with a really strong stake to keep it upright (much as
you would do for a standard rose (I think Americans call these tree roses). it
should sprout vigorously during the next summer. Keep a close eye on it and,
while allowing as many shoots as it can grow around the top of the standard,
pinch out any developing elsewhere as soon as they appear.
The next summer you can speed things up a little
by pruning back say every alternate new shoot to about two or three joints
(buds) from its origin. This will make most of the pruned shoots double up.
The rest can be tipped as necessary if they have grown down to the ground. You
need to make sure they stay clear of the earth or they will not only look
untidy, they could begin to root.
Form then on the maintenance is much like that
for a weeping rose, ends of shoots are trimmed as necessary, weak or
really old gnarly growths are removed and substituted by new
growths as far as possible. If there are few new growths any year one can cut
back some of the old shoots to a any live bud near the base and they should
regrow. ( Carol, this maintenance pruning should also apply to your pergola as
far as possible)
During the next few years the stem will grow
thicker and stronger until eventually, even if it is supporting a really
big head it will no longer need a stake.
Moira
