Re: how to use systemic herbicides for the best 'kill'


 I'm not sure I followed all of the discussion on this topic but I did pick up
 two answers.    One answer was to kill vines with Roundup when they had new
 fully expanded leaves and the other answer was to spray Roundup in the fall.
   Both answers are right on certain species.  According to the research from
 Walt Skroch at NCSU the first answer will work for green briar (Similax sp.)
 and English Ivy.  English Ivy is  highly resistant later in the year although
 it can be mowed and will become suseptible.   Vinca minor seems to be the same
 way but I don't have the research.  On the other hand, Virginia creeper and
 Trumpet creeper (Campsis) are best in the late fall.
 	I have had real good success with posion Ivy in the late fall but the
 ideal time is around full bloom.  The same holds for Honeysuckle.  Kudzu dies
 best at full bloom.   Bloom time on Kudzu seems to be real variable.  I always
 caution the homeowner that it might take 3 years of retreatment.  Several of
 them have gotten one year kills.  The ones that did always sprayed right at
 bloom.
 	Wisteria needs to be sprayed 6 to 8 weeks after bloom for the best
 kill.  This puts it in mid summer.





 On Nov 20,  7:55am, "Sean O'Hara"by way of Lucy Bradley <bradleyl@ag.a wrote:
 > Subject: how to use systemic herbicides for the best 'kill'
 > >From: Bjarcia@aol.com
 > >Subject: Re: Roundup answers
 > >Sender: owner-medit-plants@ucdavis.edu
 > >Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 19:38:34 -0500
 > >
 > > Thats exactly what i did to kill of the kikuyu that remained. I watered it
 > > and let it get long and then spreayed it. Worked like a charm I even killed
 > > off most of the remaining kikuyu but some of its growing back from stolons
 > > which did not recieve spraying. I think i will dig it up this weekend , to
 > > get ahead of the rains that are close!
 >
 > The most common misconception of systemic herbicides (Kleanup,
 > Roundup, etc.) is on what type of foliage do you apply it.  While
 > many plants (usually those we are trying NOT to kill) will give up
 > the ghost if you merely purchase these products, some (usually those
 > we ARE TRYING to kill) often have foliage that is somewhat resistant
 > to this type of poisoning (e.g. Ivy, Himalayan Blackberry).
 >
 > The best 'kill', and therefore the least risk due to the least used,
 > is when these products are sprayed upon fresh, new leaves and
 > unhardened stems.  More of the poison is absorbed into the tissue,
 > and therefore travels to the roots.  This is what is trying to be
 > done.
 >
 > What I always tell clients is to remove as much of the offending
 > plant as possible from above the ground.  (Digging the roots will
 > often just separate them into many more 'individuals', and therefore
 > requiring a separate 'kill' for each one).  Then water well to
 > promote lush, soft growth.  When there is a large amount of foliage
 > present, and before it has really hardened off well, spray on a
 > warmish, windless day.  Leave the leaves and stems alone for a
 > couple of weeks to allow for the poison to penetrate well.  When the
 > plant is showing obvious effects of the poison, and after washing
 > off any residue you can (to avoid unnecessary physical contact),
 > again remove all the stems and leaves from above the ground.  Repeat
 > the watering to promote regrowth (which should be less) and respray
 > as needed.
 >
 > Concentrate longer on areas near house foundations, sidewalks and
 > driveways, or other places where the roots might have 'hidden'.
 > These will likely be the last strongholds of the pest, and may
 > require vigilance over the next year or two for complete
 > irradication.  Check routinely over the next few years for any
 > reappearance of the plant - reinvasion can be very rapid!  Keep some
 > of your poison handy in a hand sprayer (clearly marked to avoid
 > inadvertant use or mixup), to spot kill any reappeance of the
 > unwanted species.
 >
 > I am an environmentally concerned horticulturist, and do not use ANY
 > sprays routinely for my garden or those of my clients.  It is
 > usually my opinion that diseases and fungal attacks can be abated by
 > proper horticultural practices and organic methods.  But when it
 > comes to the irradication of certain pest plants, the systemic
 > herbicide route described above is the only reliably effective
 > method and is reliably safe when used cautiously and responsibly.
 >
 >  H O R T U L U S  A P T U S - 'a small garden suited to its purpose'
 >  Sean A. O'Hara
 >  710 Jean Street, Oakland, CA  94610-1459        sean.ohara@ucop.edu
 >  (510) 987-0577
 >
 >
 >-- End of excerpt from "Sean O'Hara"by way of Lucy Bradley <bradleyl@ag.a



 --
 DAVID J. GOFORTH
 E-Mail  : dgoforth@cabarrus
 Internet: dgoforth@cabarrus.ces.ncsu.edu
 Phone   : (704) 792-0430
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