expert advice on Acer propagation


I am pasting in the response I received from a dear friend who is an Acer
expert to whom I forwarded this request for information.  He is the
greenhouse manager for Quarry Hill Botanic Gardens in Glen Ellen, which
specializes in them and other Asian species.  His own personal collection of
Acers (many of which he has bonsai-ed--another passion of his) is
impressive.  He sardonically refers to his answer as brief, so those of you
not really interested in the explanation may want to skip this one, even
though it is very informative! :-)

Cheers!
Karrie Reid
Folsom Foothill Gardener
Zone 9

Mrs. Karrie,
I hope you're doing well!  I'm looking forward to coming back to Davis soon.

Maybe in a week or two.  How's everything with you?  Here's my very brief, 
clear, very concise response:

Depending on the size of her trees, I'd suggest air-layering several 
branches of each of them.  And depending on their size, he can make several 
own-rooted plants off of each that he currently has.  This is a more 
flexible means of vegetatively propagating a tree such as this; stem 
cuttings require an environment that may be a little difficult to reproduce 
at home, especially for Acer, which can be on the difficult-to-propagate 
side.  Cuttings can work, but I think air-layering maples (when executed 
properly) will give a much higher success rate for the home gardener. 
Rooting studies on A. pentaphyllum are few and successes have only recently 
been reported, for example, and the environment was quite controlled. 
Burying the tree's crown deeper is not recommended, regardless of how high 
or low the graft union is, as the trees may suffer from crown rot and the 
owner would lose the entire tree.  A. pentaphyllum is quite rare (possibly 
less than 200 TOTAL mature plants left in China- the only place they exist; 
I'm not sure about the rarity of the other two species), so any harsh 
treatment to the entire plant wouldn't be recommended.  Air-layering is also

considered fairly conservative.  The owner can choose a pencil-sized branch,

girdle it, apply a dusting of rooting powder or paint on a liquid (mid-range

concentration should be okay, 4000-6000 ppm IBA), wrap it in moist sphagnum 
moss, cover it with plastic wrap (closed tight at top and bottom) and then 
aluminum foil to reflect light and keep the temp down, etc.  Air-layering 
could be considered a way of "nursing" a cutting along (similar to a cutting

but still attached to the stock plant)- the layered portion continues to 
receive water and nutrients through the xylem while rooting takes place. 
And yes, all three species should perform well on their own roots.  He 
should also know that he can leave the air-layered portion attached to the 
parent plant for several years if it appears necessary (might need 2).  Of 
course it's a judgment call, the new root mass should be in proportion to 
the shoot mass of the layered portion before the new rooted plant is cut 
off.  He should monitor the wetness closely the whole time.  Air-layers, 
while wrapped in plastic, can be watered with a syringe by injecting small 
amounts of water, or the top of the plastic can be opened up and water can 
be poured in (just make sure it doesn't FILL with water).  After the first 
growing season he can carefully remove the sphagnum moss from the roots that

have formed and attach a plastic pot (cut down the side and into the center 
of the pot base) around the roots, and fill the pot with potting mix, teased

in around the new roots.  For the second year he can leave the pot around 
the branch and care for it as if it was an independent plant- fertilizing it

and everything (light fertilizer can also be used the first year, too).  He 
could then detach it after the second year...

Here's an interesting product; many different ones exist like this:
http://www.rootrainers.co.uk/gardeners/propagationpots/rooterpot

Was that a convoluted explanation or what?  Karrie?  Are you still awake??

 Hope to see you soon,
Corey




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