Re: Medit-style eating


Helene's post really got me going....I could almost smell her kitchen. :)

It's very true, while many of the ingredients of the Mediterranean are 
well-known in the U.S., knowledge of their uses are quite limited, even on 
the West Coast where many of them grow.  I still am surprised at how many 
people in Seattle have never tried a fresh fig, even though they grow here.  
Whereas the U.S. has a variety of climates, our eating habits tend to be 
rather "homogenized".

Eggplant is one of the most under-used vegetables here.  In Greece and 
especially in Turkey, they prepare them in so many ways, mousakka, fried 
thin slices with garlicked yogurt, cooked with tomato, onion, and olive and 
served cool, in kebabs, as different kind of "salads" (spreads really, to 
eat with bread), stuffed, the list goes on and on.

And artichokes...*sigh*...This time of year in Greece, they are dirt cheap 
and you can go to the markets and see housewives taking them by the stems 
and shaking them to see which are fullest and heaviest for their size.  When 
I last lived in Greece, in the early 80s, they went for around 5 cents a 
piece during high season, and mostly the hearts were eaten.  The Cypriots 
even eat them raw; I've sliced the hearts very thinly and put them into a 
salad.   Fun to watch people crunch them and try to figure out what they are 
eating.  :)

In the "laiki agora", the rather smaller but still wonderful Greek version 
of the Turkish neighborhood pazar (bazaar), the farmers from surrounding 
villages bring in their vegetables to sell; you go and compare what each 
person is selling, quality and price, and then run back and grab the goods.  
If you time it just right, towards the end, they are usually overstocked 
with whatever's in really high season and are unloading them; prices drop to 
half or so.

Olives - there are indeed many, many kinds.  The laiki agora will usually 
have someone there with a cart with vats of at least 8 kinds but usually 
even more - pointy red-black kalamata olives in wine vinegar, plain large 
green ones, cracked green ones (tsakistes) cured with lemon slices, maybe a 
slightly hot one, oil-cured black olives, mild water-cured olives, large 
ripe ones (throumbes), etc. etc.  In some villages they also collect wild 
olives; these are only about half an inch wide.

One of my favorite recipes from this time of year is something called 
"tsagaridhi" in Kephallonia.  It's not a "sophisticated" dish but it's 
wonderful, and to me, just means Spring!  You need:

Equal parts fresh fennel leaves and "scallion stage" garlic
Baby fava beans (you can also use sugar snap peas here)
New potatoes
Olive oil
Other spring greens such as asparagus are good too.

Boil a large pot of water, and put the baby red peeled potatoes in.  When 
they are nearly done, take the fennel and dip into the water for 8 seconds 
or so to blanch and soften.  Pull out and let cool a bit.

Throw the chopped garlic, greens and all, into the boiling water, blanch for 
about 20 seconds.  If you have asparagus or favas, add them at the same 
time.

Pour the pot into a colander and drain.

Chop the fennel finely.  We are talking *lots* of fennel here. :)

Heat a large skillet with plenty of olive oil.  Put in the fennel and saute 
a bit, then add the other ingredients, sautee for several minutes.  Add salt 
and pepper to taste.  There should be enough olive oil for some extra to be 
in the serving bowls to dip bread in.

Make sure you have a really good dense bread to eat with it!

This dish is also made with equal parts garlic and "kaloiria", the 
grape-hyacinth-like flowers we have discussed earlier here.  If I ever find 
out what the species is, I'll let you know.  I wouldn't recommend going out 
and eating your grape hyacinths...

Bob
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