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Italian gardens part 3 (LONGER THAN EVER))

Hello gardeners!
I know this took far too long, but I hope you have not passed the last weeks
longing desperately for my posting. There's so much to do in the gardens
now, and suddenly there seems to be very short time left...
 
ROME and Latium

Starting form the North of Latium:  

Villa Lante, at Bagnaia, 5 km from Viterbo, is a wonderful and very renowned
Reinassance garden built on the slope of a hill starting in 1566. It has a
famous "chain of water" fountain, copied in hundreds of garden sall around
the western world, and many other water features, all with a symbolic
meaning and a complex iconography. As all the gardens in that age, it was
divided into two parts, the real garden and the woodland garden, or
"Selvatico". Worth visiting for the enchanting sense of proportion, the free
and merry use of water, and the huge Oriental planes (Platanus orientalis).

Bomarzo, 15 km from Viterbo, is a famous xvi century park, that once was
connected to the formal garden of the Palazzo Orsini. It was  made by
Vicino, prince of the family Orsini, as a total folly contrasting with the
logical formality and elegance of the official garden. There were enigmatic
symbols, maze-like walks, inscriptions with riddles etc.  Unfortunately,
unless you are a garden historian with a very solid theorical background, it
is terribly disappointing.  The huge sculptures of monsters and other
mysterious creatures, once sorrounded by wilderness, are set in a very
unassuming sort of decayed woodland. 
If you mean to go there, make sure to read a lot of literature before. 

Villa Farnese, at Caprarola, 20 Km from Viterbo, is a late xvi century, very
beautiful Palazzo (make sure you see it!) with formal gardens at different
levels and scenografic fountains. 

S. Liberato, near the little lake of Bracciano, 40 Km North of Rome, is a
modern garden designed by Russel Page in the 60's. Beautiful views of the
lake, a romanesque chapel, Iceberg and Clair matin roses, nice trees. Also
good for autumn colors.

Rome:  the city that once was famous for its gardens hasn't got much to
offer today, as most of its ancient villas were transformed into public
parks in our century, and therefore destroyed. If you wander around these
parks (Villas Borghese, Doria Panfili, Sciarra, Ada, just to mention some),
you can still sense and imagine what they must have been in their past, but
except for some beautiful specimen of old trees, they convey a feeling of
decadence and neglect. Only recently we had some signs of good will from the
public authorities: let's hope that in the next future I will be able to
post a richer list of Roman gardens to visit! Anyhow:

Botanic Garden Villa Corsini, Largo Cristina di Svezia (this is the
address), is a well kept secret. Somehow people tend to forget this nice
garden, with its wonderful views. It used to be a xvi century Villa, and
some of its trees were planted then. Impressive collection of palm trees,
cacti and other exotic plants. Good botanical interest.

Rose garden, on the Aventine Hill, opens only in May, but  is a charming
garden, and the view, on the Circus Maximus and the ruins of the Imperial
Palace of the Palatine hill is breathtaking. A very good collection of old
fashioned and species roses, a little too many modern ones, and   a trial
ground of English roses to test their reaction to our climate and soil
(interesting fro me and for other zone 9-10 people).

Horti Farnesiani, on the Palatine hill. The Farnese family, you may have
understood by now, was very rich and powerful. At some point, between 1542
and 1625, they bought the top of the Palatine hill and made a garden (with
no adjoining Villa) just for the pleasure of having it among the
antiquities. A big part of the garden was destroyed for the archeological
excavations that revealed what was the core of Imperial Rome, the Palaces,
Forums and temples, but something (fountains, pavillons) is still there.
Also, recently they replanted climbing roses on the ruins. And there's a
huge, century old Wistaria on a Pergola. Today it is all part of the
archeological park, so you get to the gardens  when you visit the Forums.
This is  something you MUST NOT  miss in Rome.

American Academy in Rome :)
Have I already described these gardens? Well, everybody say they are
lovely, so if not for me,  the happiest superintendent of  gardens you can
think of,  come and see the gardens. We have two main ones, Villa Aurelia
majestic and formal, the AAR Campagna informal and country-style (Campagna
means country, actually). We have many things, from topiaries to a view (we
are on the highest hill of Rome),  mediterranean borders, a recent secret
rose garden,  with its  rosemary walk, Simon Verity's fountains, etc etc. At
least, we all speak english here.

South of Rome

Even if you don't like fountains, don't miss Villa D'Este, at Tivoli, 30 Km
from Rome. The Cardinal Ippolito D'Este had the gardens made in 1570 by
architect Ligorio, and in the following century Bernini added some more
fountains. It is a masterpiece of Roman Manierism, and a triumph of fantasy.
Perfect on a hot summer day, when the noise of running water and the
hundreds of jets and sprinkles cool off the air. 

Villa Aldobrandini, at Frascati, 22 Km from Rome. Another majestic Villa,
perhaps a little too much, and formal garden with fountains. If you have to
choose only one, go to the former.

Giardini della Landriana, at Ardea, 50 Km from Rome.
Now, this is an EXTREMELY INTERESTING garden, from a mediterranean gardener
point of view. If you go to gardens to borrow ideas, find out new plants,
look at well known plants with new eyes, discover unusual associations, this
is the place to go. The original design was Russell Page's, as well, but the
owner, who is a great gardener, changed the whole plant palette, selecting
the most suited to her climate (this garden is very close to the sea and has
problems of gales and drought; zone 9-10). So today you have this garden
with a very designed structure (rooms, hedges) with a  striking selection of
plants: from the Australians to the Roses, from the greys to the polished
leafed, form the Herbs to  white flowered  and so on. 

Ninfa, 70 Km from Rome. If, on the other hand, you go to gardens also to
dream, to see something you will never have, to abandon yourself to emotions
and magic, well, here you have your place. A deserted medieval town, on the
shore of a  little lake, with streams running through the ruins, was planted
starting in 1920  in a very romantic, english style.  Mostly roses, prunuses
and maluses, magnolias, japanese maples, as the climate is cooler, and the
soil moister and softer, than in the nearby countryside. One of the most
idyllic gardens of the world, made for intense moments of garden misticism,
if you know what I mean.  This is where I started, and people ask me how it
comes I am so garden maniac! 

Well, friends, with this I think I finished. Of course there are many other
interesting areas for garden visiting, in Italy, but I think I have occupied
the List enough. Of course, if any of you  need information on some specific
area, do ask.  

Ciao!
Alessandra Vinciguerra
American Academy in Rome
Via Masina,5
00153 Roma
Tel:0039\6\5846.444
library@librs6k.vatlib.it
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