FW: curing compost
- To: m*@ucdavis.edu
- Subject: FW: curing compost
- From: J* M*
- Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 01:12:53 -0700
Nan,
In the large gardens I care for, we have piles of subsoil that we take out
of the holes dug for planting trees and shrubs (read lots of roses),
perennials, annuals, vegetables. No, I don't buy the system of planting in
unamended soil--except when dealing most California natives and some plants
from other mediterranean climates. Tried that for other things--it didn't
work for me. When I plant a rose I dig a bushel-basket sized (yes, I'm an
old geezer--I remember when there still were such measures) hole and mix the
better part of what I remove (any half-way good soil) about half-and-half
with good compost along, with a couple of handfuls of Osmokote 14-14-14. If
the compost is still very rough, i.e. less than done, we often use it for
mulch in rose beds and perennial borders
Almost everything we take from the garden goes into the compost bins (old
fashioned wooden slats or newfangled plastic stack units) or piles when we
have an overflow (which is often). This includes grass clippings, leaves,
small sticks, chipped wood, fireplace ashes, etc.--everything BUT weeds with
seed on them. Often our compost doesn't heat up enough to kill all the
seeds, and I have learned that some seeds will come intact through anything.
For years we have been gaining on the Nothoscordum fragrans; if that seed
went into the compost, we'd be doomed. We make layers of vegetable matter a
foot to a foot and a half thick and cover the layer with subsoil from our
piles. We try to put a small sprinkler on each pile for a while once or
twice a week when it doesn't rain. If we have the manpower (which isn't too
often) we will turn a pile once. Otherwise, we let the red wigglers and the
racoons do it. (Yes, there is something those masked bandit rototillers are
good for). The piles at the one place where we still have lawn clippings
break down faster because of the extra nitrogen.
One thing I don't really understand is what you mean by "done." Do you mean
reduced to the consistency of coffee grounds? If so, we almost never get to
that stage. We use it when we need it, in whatever stage it happens to be
when we need it. We never have enough. For mulching, we often have to buy
in truckloads of commercial compost that contains lots of cow manure.
I realize there are more scientific ways of composting, but this old
fashioned way seems to work for us. With the limited manpower we have, it
is about the best we can do.
John MacGregor
jonivy@earthlink.net
Pasadena, Sunset Zones 21 and 23
> Wow, you cover it with clay soil? Do you turn it? Is this sheet
> composting or is it done in a pile? How do you use the compost once
> it is done?
>>Nan,
>>
>>I stand corrected. I cover my composts with heavy clay soil and soak it
>>twice a week. Maybe it wastes water, but it works for me.
>>>>Aeration is the important element. Curing compost properly is an aerobic
>>>>decay process that, by definition, requires plenty of oxygen. Covering it
>>>>up with a tarp will only limit the available oxygen and slow down the
>>>>process. Frequent turning is the best way to speed up the process. That's
>>>>why they invented the compost tumbler. Keep it moist, but not saturated
>>>>with water and you're on your way.
>>>
>>> John , I agree that aeration is critical, but in climates like mine
>>> which is incredibly dry, the greater problem is keeping the pile damp
>>> and that is why I keep mine covered. I had nearly given up on hot
>>> composting until I participated in our local master composter program
>>> and learned about covering my compost. Works like a charm.
>>>
>>>
>>> Nan
>>> --
>>> **********
>>> '''''''''''''''''''''''
>>> Nan Sterman
>>> San Diego County California
>>> Sunset zone 24, USDA hardiness zone 10b or 11
>
