Re: Is there a fruit-tree bible?

At 02:11 AM 5/4/99 +0200, you wrote:
>Every time I look at my 5-metre tall apricot tree starting to bend over
with the weight of the soon to be succulent fruit already, I think how
lucky I am, but surely my good fortune can't last. I'm too ignorant at the
moment to know how to prune it back properly, though I seem to manage fine
on non-Prunus plants.   <snip>   As this year is going to be a bumper crop,
I understand I'd do better to prune it soon afterwards, so that next year's
meagre crop (if they always do alternate between good and bad crops) can be
on a perfectly pruned tree.
>I look forward to your ideas

Anthony -

I don't know of a 'bible' for fruit trees, but I do know that each has its
own, slightly different pruning needs.  I always try and do some research 
on any fruit trees I might need to deal with before starting.  Locally, the
Sunset Western Garden Book gives good, basic informaiton about the most
common fruit trees.

For Apricots, the fruiting takes place on the short, secondary spurs from 
last season's growth.  These have very closely spaced internodes and are
quite different in appearance from the other branches.  Now would be a good
time to study these as you can easily see which are the most healthy and
productive (i.e. producing the most fruit).  Your strategy is sound -
pruning before your 'off' year.  The fruiting spurs will last about 3-4
years, so if there are some young spurs, on healthy, vigorous limbs, try
and leave as many of them as possible.  Look for older limbs that might be
removed, those with heavier bark, less vigorous spurs (i.e. less fruit),
or even perhaps some signs of disease.  These might be targeted for
removal.

Any large limbs should be carefully removed to avoid ripping of the
bark (introduces disease) - an 'undercut' helps prevent this and a 'pre-
cut' further up the limb to remove most of the weight is also adviseable.
Studies have shown that large cuts, made at a sloping alge to shed water
and provided with good air circulation are best left to heal naturally.
The old tar or wax coatings still often used just give pathogens a safe
place to grow and invade the tree's tissue.

As with all pruning, your aim is to create open branching for air
circulation, eliminate crossing branches which can harm each other through
rubbing, choose the most vigorous and best growing (directionally) limbs
to carry on the life of the tree.  Back-crossing, weekly placed, and
congested growth should be removed if possible.  Sometimes, a weak-limbed
tree can be grafted to itself to help introduce stability.  This can be
as easy as firmly tying a couple of crossing limbs in the middle of the
crown and allowing them to grow into each other (be sure not to use wire
or allow the tie to remain in place, ultimately 'strangling' the tree).

We had a wonderful Peach years ago in Davis that bore so many fruit
each year that it broke many limbs.  The fruit seldom riped fully on these
and the tree's shape was always being destroyed by branches being ripped
off by the weight of the fruit.  I worked hard each year to limit the
fruit (which was marvelously delicious!) and prune to create better
structure and strength, slowly but finally managing to get it
somewhat under control.  Later, after we left, I heard from an old
neighbor that the new owner was so frustrated with the tree, he had it
removed entirely!

Sean O.

Sean A. O'Hara                       sean.ohara@poboxes.com
h o r t u l u s   a p t u s          710 Jean Street
'a garden suited to its purpose'     Oakland, CA 94610-1459, U.S.A.
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