Learning seed propagation...

If I may, I'd like to ask for a few tips and general feedback on my
experiments learning to propagate plants from seed...  Apologizes if
this is long, or unwelcome. I know this is a bit involved/general...

For several years now I've been starting annual and perennial seeds in
flats in the basement under fluorescent lights. I've learned the hard
way to use sterile mix. I sow seeds in the flat, grown them up in place
in the flat as they come up (or not!) and eventually transplant to the
final garden location. It seems to work better for annuals that
perennials, and stuff that's "easy".

I've graduated now to more elaborate techniques which I'm wondering
about (as follows)...

I'm trying germinating and growing in different containers. I've started
about 50 seed types in 4" pots (big quantity wanted) and little 2"
square flat plastic trays. Here's a picture:
http://www.visi.com/~response/seeds.jpg . After these develop 2 true
leaves, I plan to transplant these into my collection of flats and pots
as growing containers to grow these seedlings up. Here are some of them:
http://www.visi.com/~response/flats.jpg .  I hope to get better
germination by controlling temperature (50, 60, 70, 80 degrees), trying
seeds with a cold treatment in the frig or outside, also ending up with
better spacing and growing containers for each plant. (My germination
results are variable.) Like deeper pots for perennials which seem to
grow slower and need more root space (a 4" pot/plant), versus marigolds
which seem to do fine in a shallow flat.

Can I probably get away using non sterile compost, potting (or garden?)
soil, sand mixes for the growing up to save money? I'd save money just
using bought sterile mix for the germination.

It seems it would be easier to grow some slow growing perennials up for
a year in a 4" pot and place them in the garden the 2nd year. How do you
winter them over (Zone 4)?  In the pot, outside under a 12" layer of
protective mulch? They'd take up less space this first year, be easier
to water, protect from storms, keep in the cold frame.

I built a little cold frame/"micro greenhouse". There's a picture at
http://www.visi.com/~response/coldframe.jpg . Its lined with 3/4" foam
board for insulation. I put a little electric heater with a thermostat
in it, one of those cube things, and its staying about 70 F inside and
the heater only running half the time on low (750 watt) so I don't think
I'll have a big shock from the electric company bill... Uh, no pun
intended!  The other day the temp inside with the sun out was around
90-100 F and it was 50 F outside. So I'm hoping next year in January,
February when its 0-32 F outside it'll heat up to 70 F inside so the
heat doesn't run during the day.  I could throw an old rug or blanket
over it at night too.  I'm planning on some kind of thermostat and fan
to ventilate automatically at a set temperature so it doesn't overheat,
which it obviously will.  More experimenting. It'll be kind of like a
micro-greenhouse, a greenhouse that doesn't cost $5000 (can't afford)
and it could be taken apart and stored during the summer & fall (since I
don't want it on my patio then).  I imagine growing up plants in here
Feb-May.  I think the sunlight is better and brighter than the
fluorescent lights so the cold frame may work better....  Also better
temp and humidity control.

Any comments and suggestions? I'd like to get better with "difficult"
plants:  perennials, not-so-easy to germinate seeds, and try seeds from
exchanges, specialty sources that I don't see in the average garden
store.

-Allan



--
Allan Anderson
Jardinage, Copper and Cedar Garden Art
3701 East Minnehaha Parkway
Minneapolis, MN 55417
612-729-2285
http://www.visi.com/~response/jardinage.html


---------------------------------------------------------------------
To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@mallorn.com with the
message text UNSUBSCRIBE PERENNIALS
Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index