RE: worms /soil building


Another good scenario to use the method described earlier is when you want a
bed where a large gree is.  You can't really raise the bed too much or you'd
run the risk of damaging the tree (no oxygen, I guess), but the
compost/cardboard/compost allows for pretty generous planting in a
previously nearly impossibly site.

Susan Saxton, zone 6b
For mine is just a little old fashioned garden where the 
flowers come together to praise the Lord and teach all 
who look upon them to do likewise.
Celia Thaxter

I AM in shape.  ROUND is a shape!


> -----Original Message-----
> From: lowery@teamzeon.com [l*@teamzeon.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 15, 1999 11:54 AM
> To: perennials@mallorn.com
> Subject: worms /soil building
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Valerie Lowery@ZEON
> 04/15/99 02:53 PM
> 
> I agree with Susan.  I don't own a tiller and because all of 
> my beds are
> jam-packed with plants, I don't see where I'd ever use it 
> except to make a
> new bed.  What I do, however, is top-dress my beds every year 
> with manure
> or bagged compost.  At the very least, I'll throw on some slow-release
> fertilizer along with my shredded bark mulch.  I let the 
> worms do their
> thing as I'm too lazy to try and dig in all of that stuff.
> 
> I've also learned that it takes hard work to remove sod to 
> make a new bed.
> It is so easy just to do the layering thing that has been 
> discussed.  Did
> two beds like that and it's like magic.  If it can bust up 
> red clay, then
> it will work anywhere.  The worms, centipedes, and other 
> assorted bugs love
> the decomposing grass and newspapers.  I've also extended 
> existing beds the
> same way.  The hardest part is the long wait.  I do this 
> layering thing in
> the spring to plant the following spring.  All of the summer 
> heat really
> bakes the mixture and it gives the bed time to REALLY decompose.
> 
> I've tilled and I've layered.  Layering is the best.
> 
> Val in KY
> zone 6a
> (who is now thinking of another new bed...)
> 
> 
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