RE: Plumbago



Which Plumbago?  Which species?
http://www.backyardgardener.com/ginsburg/column151.html

or
Plumbago auriculata (Cape Plumbago, Cape Leadwort)


Plumbago auriculata can take the form of a mounding evergreen shrub, or with
support, a 12 foot tall, climbing vine. Foliage is a fresh, light green,
white to blue flowers are 1 inch wide, in clusters like phlox. Blooms from
spring to fall, longer in frost-free areas. Prefers full sun and good
drainage. If damaged by frost it will recover; prune off blackened foliage.
Excellent for banks, fences, exposed wall, or hedge. Somewhat salt tolerant.

 
 
 
   Genus: Plumbago 
   Species: auriculata 
   Cultivar: N/A 
   Family: Plumbaginaceae 
   Common Name: Cape Plumbago 
   Category: ground covers 
   Water: Normal to Moist  
 Bloomtime Range: Mid Summer to Late Fall  
Width: 36 to 120 inches 
Height: 120 to 240 inches 
Hardiness Zone Range: 9 to 10  
Light: Sun to Full Sun  
Soil: Some Sand to Clay Loam  
 
 

Conditions:

Rabbit Tolerant
As cute as they are, rabbits can really damage a garden or landscape. Young,
tender lettuces seem to be the favorite. If a free-roaming dog is not a
possiblility for you, consider protecting vegetables by installing raised
beds and covering tender shoots with netting. If you have ample room,
consider planting enough for yourself and the bunnies. Scent repellents
don't always repel animals, as they get used to them and are often washed
off in the rain.

Salt Tolerant
Anyone who lives close to the coast or in areas where salts are high in the
soil can appreciate a plant that is salt tolerant. Salt accumulation and
damage tend to be associated with arid climates where modest rainfall fails
to wash built up salts from the soil. It takes about 30 in. of rainfall a
year to move salt through the soil. Plants suffering from salt damage
usually have yellow leaves, brown tips or margins, and leaf drop. Soil may
have a crusty white layer too. Salt tolerant plants are often natives or
imports that have evolved in salty conditions.

Slope Tolerant
Plants with a fibrous root system, a wider-than-high profile and a
preference for good drainage often make excellent candidates for slope or
hill plantings. These plants help to control erosion by holding the soil on
slopes intact, while presenting minimal wind resistance.

Erosion Control
Plants that help control erosion have fibrous root systems that bind soil.
Leaves and the overall form of a plant can prevent erosion by breaking up
water droplets before they hit the ground, lessening splashing and runoff.

Site Conditions
When setting criteria for site conditions, check boxes that apply to the
area you wish to implement the plant you are looking for. Naturally, you'll
need to select a USDA Hardiness Zone. If you know what AHS Heat Zone you
live in, select that too. Please note that the AHS Heat Zone system is new:
though a wonderful tool, all plants may not be entered at this time. Failure
to enter a Heat Zone will not affect your search. Selecting soil type and pH
are just as important as light and water conditions because they enable a
search that will find plants best suited to your site.

How-tos:

Fertilizing Young Plants
Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage root development. A starter
fertilizer such as 6-18-6 or sterilized bonemeal helps satisfy this need.
Apply recommended amount for plant per lable directions at time of planting
or at least during the first growing season. Phosphorus does not ''move'' in
the soil like nitrogen or potassium, therefore most fertilizers have lower
middle numbers. The second growing season, switch to a 16-4-8 or other
comparable fertilizer with a 4:1:2 ratio.

Fertilizing Established Plants
Established plants benefit from a yearly fertilization. If you have a sandy
soil, fertilizing twice per year may be in order. Apply a 16-4-8 or 4:1:2
fertilizer according to label directions, but do not forego the soil test.
Organic mulches greatly benefit all plants, keeping roots cool, weed down,
moisture in, and enriching the soil. Never fertilize just before frost; this
encourages new growth that will be burned by cold weather. The safest time
to fertilize is early spring or when you know that new growth will not
suffer damage from late frost.

Planting Vines & Climbers
Choose the planting site for your climber carefully: its long flexible stems
may need some shelter, but planting right next to a wall might keep it from
the sun or water it needs. Make sure that there's room for the climber to
grow when it gets tall, and remember that it will grow towards the sun
unless carefully trained. Be sure you will be able to manage the plant once
it becomes tall, or that if it has a mind of its own, it won't become a
problem. 
Select a support structure before you plant your climber. Common support
structures are trellises, wires, strings, or existing structures. Some
plants, like ivy, climb by aerial roots and need no support. Aerial rooted
climbers are fine for concrete and masonary, but should never be allowed to
climb on wood. Clematis climbs by leaf stalks and the Passion flower by
coiling tendrils. Akebia and Wisteria climb by twining stems in a spiral
fashion around its support. 

Do not use permanent ties; the plant will quickly outgrow them. Use soft,
flexible ties (twist-ties work well), or even strips of pantyhose, and check
them every few months. Make sure that your support structure is strong,
rust-proof, and will last the life of the plant. Anchor your support
structure before you plant your climber. 

Dig a hole large enough for the root ball. Plant the climber at the same
level it was in the container. Plant a little deeper for clematis or for
grafted plants. Fill the hole with soil, firming as you, and water well. As
soon as the stems are long enough to reach their support structure, gently
and loosely tie them as necessary. 

If planting in a container, follow the same guidelines. Plan ahead by adding
a trellis to the pot, especially if the container will not be positioned
where a support for the vine is not readily available. It is possible for
vines and climbers to ramble on the ground or cascade over walls too.
Clematis and Roses actually work quite well this way.

Pruning Flowering Shrubs
It is necessary to prune your deciduous flowering shrub for two reasons: 1.
By removing old, damaged or dead wood, you increase air flow, yeilding in
less disease. 2. You rejuvenate new growth which increases flower
production. 

Pruning the deciduous shrub can be divided into 4 groups: Those that require
minimal pruning (take out only dead, diseased, damaged, or crossed branches,
can be done in early spring.); spring pruning (encourages vigorous, new
growth which produces summer flowers - in other words, flowers appear on new
wood); summer pruning after flower (after flowering, cut back shoots, and
take out some of the old growth, down to the ground); suckering habit
pruning (flowers appear on wood from previous year. Cut back flowered stems
by 1/2, to strong growing new shoots and remove 1/2 of the flowered stems a
couple of inches from the ground) Always remove dead, damaged or diseased
wood first, no matter what type of pruning you are doing. 

Examples: Minimal: Amelanchier, Aronia, Chimonanthus, Clethra, Corus
alternifolia, Daphne, Fothergilla, Hamamelis, Poncirus, Viburnum. Spring:
Abelia, Buddleia, Ceonanthus, Datura, Fuchsia, Hibiscus, Hydrangea,
Hypericum, Perovskia, Spirea douglasii/japonica, Tamarix. Summer after
flower: Buddleia alternifolia, Calycanthus, Chaenomoles, Corylus,
Cotoneaster, Deutzia, Forsythia, Magnolia x soulangiana/stellata,
Philladelphus, Rhododendron sp., Ribes, Spirea x
arguta/prunifolia/thunbergii, Syringa, Weigelia. Suckering: Kerria

Getting the Most Out of Cut Flowers
Cut flowers bring the garden into your home. While some cut flowers have a
long vase life, most are highly perishable. How cut flowers are treated when
you first bring them home can significantly increase how long they last.
The most important thing to consider is getting sufficient water taken up
into the cut stem. Insufficient water can result in wilting and short-lived
flowers. Bent neck of roses, where the flower head droops, is the result of
poor water uptake. To maximize water uptake, first re-cut the stems at an
angle so that the vascular system (the ''plumbing'' of the stem) is clear.
Next immerse the cut stems in warm water. If the water is acidic, it will
help with water uptake. Some people put an aspirin in the vase to lower the
pH of the water.
Remember when the flower is cut, it is cut off from its food supply. Once
water is taken care of, food is the resource that will run out next. The
plants stems naturally feed the flowers with sugars. If you add a bit of
sugar (1 tsp.) to the vase water, this will help feed the flower stems and
extend their vase life. Some people use Sprite in their vase water to keep
their flowers fed. 
Bacteria will build up in vase water and eventually clog up the stem so the
flower cannot take up water. To prevent this, change vase water frequently
and make a new cut in the stems every few days. Some people throw a penny in
their vase water, in the hope that the copper will inhibit bacterial growth.
Instead of adding sugar, an aspirin, and a penny, there are floral
preservatives available from florists that contain sugars, acids and
bactericides to extend cut flower life. These come in small packets and are
generally available where cut flowers are sold. If used properly, these can
extend the vase life of some cut flowers 2-3 times when compared with just
plain water in the vase.

Planting Shrubs
Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball, and deep enough to plant at the
same level the shrub was in the container. If soil is poor, dig hole even
wider and fill with a mixture half original soil and half compost or soil
amendment. 

Carefully remove shrub from container and gently separate roots. Position in
center of hole, best side facing forward. Fill in with original soil or an
amended mixture if needed as described above. For larger shrubs, build a
water well. Finish by mulching and watering well. 

If the plant is balled-and-burlapped, remove fasteners and fold back just
the top of burlap, tucking it down into hole, after you've positioned shrub.
You do not want to fully remove the burlap as you may break up or damage
rootball. Make sure that all burlap is buried so that it won't wick water
away from rootball during hot, dry periods. For larger shrubs, build a water
well. Finish by mulching and watering well. 

If shrub is bare-root, look for a discoloration somewhere near the base;
this mark is likely where the soil line was. If soil is too sandy or too
clayey, add organic matter in the form of compost, soil conditioner, peat,
or pulverized bark compost, which will add both drainage and water holding
capacity. Fill soil, firming just enough to support shrub. Finish by
mulching and watering well.

Cut Flowers
Flowers suitable for cutting maintain their form for several days, when
properly conditioned and placed in water or a soaked oasis. A cut flower
should have a fairly strong, long stem, which makes it easy to work with in
arrangements. There are many short stem flowers that make good cut flowers
too, but they look best when floated in a bowl or clustered and placed in a
juice glass size vase. 

For best results, always cut flowers early in the morning, preferably before
dew has had a chance to dry. Always make cuts with a sharp knife of pruners
and plunge flowers or foliage into a bucket of water. Store in a cool place
until you are ready to work with them. This will keep flower from opening.
Always re-cut stems and change water frequently.

About Pruning
Pruning is one of the most commonly misunderstood aspects of plant care
maintenance. Pruning does not hurt plants; rather it is often necessary to
prune in order to maintain plant health. On the other side of the coin, not
all plants must be pruned. Prune to remove weak, diseased or dead branches;
to correct damage from wind and ice storms; to thin dense growth; to reduce
the size of a plant that has gotten too big for a landscape; to cut down on
water loss after transplanting; to give a plant a special shape such as a
hedge or topiary; to remove dead flowers and seed pods; to encourage flowers
and fruit; and to rejuvenate a tired old shrub.
When pruning first think, then cut. Look at the plant from all angles.
Visualize the outcome before you cut. Start with obvious problems like
diseased and dead wood, or crossing and crowded limbs. Avoid damaging bark
and leaving too much exposed cut surface. Cut close buds without injuring
them. Cut at a 45 degree angle unless buds are opposite, in which case cuts
may be perpendicular to the branch. Prior to pruning, make sure that blades
are sharp so wood does not tear and split. This prevents dieback and wounds
where disease and insects may enter. Recent studies show that wound sealant
does not enhance healing. 

Prune Shrubs-Spring
Spring is the time to remove old, damaged stems. You may shear or shape at
this time too.

Pruning Evergreen MidSum/LateFall Flowering Shrubs
For evergreen shrubs that flower between midsummer and late fall on either
last year's or this year's wood, prune annually, only if necessary, taking
out only wayward or crossed braches. More than likely, you will only need to
trim tips. Example: Prunus laurocerasus

Pests:

Mealybugs
Small, wingless, dull-white, soft-bodied insects that produce a waxy powdery
covering. They have piercing mouth parts that suck the sap out of plant
tissue. Mealybugs often look like small pieces of cotton and they tend to
congregate where leaves and stems branch. They attack a wide range of
plants. The young tend to move around until they find a suitable feeding
spot, then they hang out in colonies and feed. Mealybugs can weaken a plant
leading to yellow foliage and leaf drop. They also produce a sweet substance
called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black
surface fungal growth called sooty mold.
Prevention and Control: Control ants, which want mealybugs around for the
honeydew they produce. Isolate infested plants from those that are not
infested. For small plants you might treat with a cotton swab soaked in a
50% rubbing alcohol solution. Encourage natural enemies such as lady beetles
in the garden. On citrus and large ornamentals, spray with a horticultural
oil on overcast day as not to burn leaves. Severe infestations may be
treated with pyrethrum, neem, malathion, or acephate (ornamentals only).

Whiteflies
Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack
many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves
to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to
500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies,
you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed.
Whiteflies can weaken a plant eventually leading to plant death if they are
not checked and they can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also
produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead
to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.


Possible controls: keep weeds down, use screening in windows to keep them
out, remove infested plants away from non-infested plants, use a reflective
mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies), trap with
yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides such as soaps and oils, take
advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden, and
sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.

Spider Mites
Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot,
dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth
parts, causing plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant
death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly,
as a female lays up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce
a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.
Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air
seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered,
especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, and
tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the
nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. Sometimes
a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Dusting edibles
with sulfur  kills mites too. Insecticidal soaps can be used, but confirm
that it is OK for vegetables prior to spraying. On citrus or ornamentals,
spray with horticultural oil such as Sunspray. Insecticides don't kill mites
because mites are not insects. Mitacides must be used, but always verify
safety for your ornamental. Never use on food.

Tools:

Long-handled Loppers
Long-handled loppers are great for pruning tall, woody plants that have
limbs up to 1 inch thick. The long handles provide the extra leverage that
even the sharpest bypass pruner does not offer. Blades should be of high
quality steel such as stainless, carbon, or coated. The handles on the
loppers you select should be of a strong material that is lightweight. 

You will find bypass and anvil type blades, bypass being more common. A good
pair of loppers will have a buffer or stopper at base of handles to prevent
jarring when operating pruners. Don't forget the importance of maintaining
your loppers: Always clean blades with an oiled rag or steel wool. Many
gardeners like to swish blades in a bleach / water solution to ensure that
no diseases will be transferred to the next plant pruned. Before putting
your pruners away, lightly oil them.

Bypass Pruners
Bypass pruners have a scissor-like action and are best suited for pruning
slightly woody stems such as roses. The convex upper blade cuts against a
concave or square lower blade to make the clean cut needed when pruning
roses. It is well worth the money to invest in a pair of high quality bypass
pruners. Always clean blades with an oiled rag or steel wool. Many gardeners
like to swish blades in a bleach / water solution to ensure that no diseases
will be transferred to the next plant pruned. Before putting your pruners
away, lightly oil them. Once a year, tighten the blade tension and have
blades sharpened to ensure a clean cut.

Anvil Pruners
Anvil pruners have a sharp, straight edge upper blade that cuts against a
lower, straight edged anvil. Anvil pruners must be kept sharp, or blade will
crush stems against the anvil rather than cutting through it. Anvil pruners
are relatively inexpensive and can be found in almost any hardware or garden
store. Great for cutting soft-stemmed plants.

Tools for Pruning
Proper tools for pruning may include hand pruning shears for twigs and small
branches, lopping shears for thicker branches, hedge clippers, pruning saws
for large branches, and power tools. Keep cutting edges sharpened to make
clean cuts. Clean tools between uses to avoid spreading plant diseases and
lightly oil tools to avoid rusting.


 

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