Re: Plumbago



Which Plumbago?  Which species?
http://www.backyardgardener.com/ginsburg/column151.html

Plumbago - Leadwort - Ceratostigma plumbaginoides

Plumbago Larpenlx or Ceratostigma plumbaginoides is one of the very late
blooming small border plants. Because it is such a persistent blooming plant
from July until freezing weather in the Winter, it is very much valued at
the time of the year when most other border plants have finished blooming.
Plumbago Larpentae grows about 10 inches or 12, inches high and forms a
round, ball-like mass of dark green, glossy foliage which in the Fall months
is covered with trusses of lovely cobalt-blue flowers on wiry stems, which
last for a long time.

UTILIZE. Plumbago Larpentae is especially useful as a rock garden plant
because the foliage turns a reddish-bronze in Autumn and lasts so long that,
with the deep glossy green foliage of early Spring, it makes a good
all-the-year-round plant. This perennial is also used in borders and as an
edging plant.

GENERAL. In the colder regions the plants need protection during the Winter.
The plants may be taken from the ground and placed in coldframes. They grow
well in sunny places and in any good garden soil.

PROPAGATION. The plants are usually propagated by dividing the roots in
Spring.


or

Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (Plumbago, Leadwort)


C. plumbaginoides ia a woody-based perennial that makes a wonderful ground
cover, underplanting for spring bulbs, or planter box filler. In late summer
or early fall, this plant bears terminal, spike-like, brilliant blue
flowers. Leaves also become tinged with red during the fall. Mulch in colder
areas. Cut back in the South. Well-drained soil with ample organic matter a
must.

 
 
 
   Genus: Ceratostigma 
   Species: plumbaginoides 
   Cultivar: N/A 
   Family: Plumbaginaceae 
   Common Name: Plumbago 
   Category: landscape 
   Water: Normal to Moist  
 Bloomtime Range: Early Summer to Late Summer  
Width: 12 inches 
Height: 18 inches 
Hardiness Zone Range: 5 to 7  
Heat Zone Range: 3 to 7  
Light: Sun to Full Sun  
Soil: Sandy Loam to Clay Loam  
 
 

Conditions:

Wind Tolerant
Plants that are wind tolerant usually have flexible, strong branches and are
not brittle. Wind tolerant plants often have thick or waxy leaves that
control moisture loss from wind whipping. Native plants are often the best
adapted to not only wind, but also soil and climate.

Fall Color
Fall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to
complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much
iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant-and the acidity of
the chemicals present-leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just
fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumacs, for instance,
have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The
leaves of some varieties of ash growing in areas where limestone is present
turn purplish-blue.
Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for
the color change, the weather actually has nothing to do with it. As the
days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees
starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf.
With reduced flow comes diminished chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the
leaves their green color in the spring and summer. The residual sap becomes
more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.

Fungi:

Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a widespread fungal disease that often attacks plants
lacking sufficient air circulation or light. The problem is worse where
nights are cool and days are warm and humid. The powdery white or gray
fungus is usually found on the upper surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves
often turn yellow or brown, curl up, and drop off. New foliage emerges
crinkled and distorted. Fruit is dwarfed and often drops early.
Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly
so they receive adequate light and air. Always water from below, keeping
water off of foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen
fertilizer. Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem
becomes severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required
treatments. Clean up, remove, and destroy all leaves, flowers, and debris in
the fall.

How-tos:

About Pruning
Pruning is one of the most commonly misunderstood aspects of plant care
maintenance. Pruning does not hurt plants; rather it is often necessary to
prune in order to maintain plant health. On the other side of the coin, not
all plants must be pruned. Prune to remove weak, diseased or dead branches;
to correct damage from wind and ice storms; to thin dense growth; to reduce
the size of a plant that has gotten too big for a landscape; to cut down on
water loss after transplanting; to give a plant a special shape such as a
hedge or topiary; to remove dead flowers and seed pods; to encourage flowers
and fruit; and to rejuvenate a tired old shrub.
When pruning first think, then cut. Look at the plant from all angles.
Visualize the outcome before you cut. Start with obvious problems like
diseased and dead wood, or crossing and crowded limbs. Avoid damaging bark
and leaving too much exposed cut surface. Cut close buds without injuring
them. Cut at a 45 degree angle unless buds are opposite, in which case cuts
may be perpendicular to the branch. Prior to pruning, make sure that blades
are sharp so wood does not tear and split. This prevents dieback and wounds
where disease and insects may enter. Recent studies show that wound sealant
does not enhance healing. 

Pruning Flowering Shrubs
It is necessary to prune your deciduous flowering shrub for two reasons: 1.
By removing old, damaged or dead wood, you increase air flow, yeilding in
less disease. 2. You rejuvenate new growth which increases flower
production. 
Pruning the deciduous shrub can be divided into 4 groups: Those that require
minimal pruning (take out only dead, diseased, damaged, or crossed branches,
can be done in early spring.); spring pruning (encourages vigorous, new
growth which produces summer flowers - in other words, flowers appear on new
wood); summer pruning after flower (after flowering, cut back shoots, and
take out some of the old growth, down to the ground); suckering habit
pruning (flowers appear on wood from previous year. Cut back flowered stems
by 1/2, to strong growing new shoots and remove 1/2 of the flowered stems a
couple of inches from the ground) Always remove dead, damaged or diseased
wood first, no matter what type of pruning you are doing. 

Examples: Minimal: Amelanchier, Aronia, Chimonanthus, Clethra, Corus
alternifolia, Daphne, Fothergilla, Hamamelis, Poncirus, Viburnum. Spring:
Abelia, Buddleia, Ceonanthus, Datura, Fuchsia, Hibiscus, Hydrangea,
Hypericum, Perovskia, Spirea douglasii/japonica, Tamarix. Summer after
flower: Buddleia alternifolia, Calycanthus, Chaenomoles, Corylus,
Cotoneaster, Deutzia, Forsythia, Magnolia x soulangiana/stellata,
Philladelphus, Rhododendron sp., Ribes, Spirea x
arguta/prunifolia/thunbergii, Syringa, Weigelia. Suckering: Kerria

Pinching and Thinning Perennials
Merely planting a perennial does not assure years of maintenance-free
gardening. Perennials need care, just like any other plant. One thing that
distinguishes perennials is that they tend to be active growers that have to
be thinned out occasionally or they loose vigor.
As perennials establish, they require occasional pruning back and thining
out. This prevents them from completely taking over an area to the exclusion
of other plants, and increases air circulation thereby reducing the
incidence of diseases like botrytis and powdery mildew.
Many species also flower abundantly and produce ample seed. As blooms fade
it is advisable to deadhead plants; that is, remove spent flowers before
they form seed. This prevents plants from seeding all over the garden and
conserves the considerable energy it takes the plant to produce seed.
As perennials mature, they may form dense root masses that eventually sap
vigor. Occasionally thin out a stand of such perennials. Divide the root
system, making new plants to plant in another area of the garden or to give
away. This root pruning will also stimulate new growth and rejuvenate the
plant. Most perennials may be successfully divided in either spring or fall,
with fall being the favorite because roots are allowed to develop without
producing food for growing tops during the winter dormancy period.

Preparing Containers
Containers are excellent when used for their ornamental value, as a planting
option when there is little or no soil, or for plants that require a soil
type not found in the garden. When growing more than one plant in a
container, make sure that all have similar cultural requirements. Choose a
container that is deep and large enough to allow root development and growth
as well as proportional balance between the fully developed plant and the
container. Plant large containers in the place you intend them to stay. All
containers should have drainage holes. A mesh screen or paper coffee filter
placed over the hole will keep soil from washing out. It is not necessary to
add pebbles or broken crockery to the bottom of the pot, especially if you
are using a high quality potting soil. The potting soil you select should be
an appropriate mix for the plants you have chosen. Quality soils (or
soil-less media) absorb moisture readily and evenly when wet. Water running
off of soil upon initial wetting indicates a need for amendment.
Prior to filling a container with soil, wet the potting soil in a tub or
wheelbarrow until evenly moist. Fill container about halfway full or to a
level that allows plants to be just below the rim of the pot. Rootballs
should be level with soil line when the project is complete. You may add a
layer of decorative moss, mulch, or pebbles to top of pot to hold soil in
place. Water well.

Planting Perennials
Determine appropriate perennials for your garden by considering sun and
shade through the day, exposure, water requirements, climate, soil makeup,
seasonal color desired, and position of other garden plants and trees.
The best times to plant are spring and fall, when soil is workable and out
of danger of frost. Fall plantings have the advantage that roots can develop
without competing with developing top growth as in spring. Spring is more
desirable for perennials that dislike wet conditions or for colder areas,
allowing full establishment before first winter. Planting in summer or
winter is not advisable for most plants, unless planting a more established
one gallon sized container.
To plant container-grown plants: Prepare planting holes with appropriate
depth and space between. Water plants thoroughly and let excess water drain
before carefully removing from containers. Carefully loosen the root balls
and place the plants in holes, working soil around the roots as you fill.
For extremely root bound plants, gently separate roots with fingers. A few
slits made with a pocket knife are OK, but keep to a minimum. Continue
filling in soil, then water thoroughly, protecting from direct sun until
stable.
To plant bare-root plants: Plant as soon as possible after purchase. Prepare
suitable planting holes, spread and work soil among roots as you fill in.
Water well and protect from direct sun until stable.
To plant seedlings: A number of perennials produce self-sown seedlings that
can be transplanted. You may also start your own seedling bed for
transplanting. Prepare suitable planting holes, spacing appropriately for
plant development. Gently lift each seedling and as much surrounding soil as
possible with your garden trowel, and replant it immediately, firming soil
with fingertips and water well. Shade from direct sun and water regularly
until stable.

Fertilizing Established Plants
Established plants benefit from a yearly fertilization. If you have a sandy
soil, fertilizing twice per year may be in order. Apply a 16-4-8 or 4:1:2
fertilizer according to label directions, but do not forego the soil test.
Organic mulches greatly benefit all plants, keeping roots cool, weed down,
moisture in, and enriching the soil. Never fertilize just before frost; this
encourages new growth that will be burned by cold weather. The safest time
to fertilize is early spring or when you know that new growth will not
suffer damage from late frost.

Fertilization for Annuals and Perennials
Annuals and perennials may be fertilized with either water-soluble, quick
release fertilizers, temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers, or
organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are
used every 2 weeks or per label instructions. Controlled, slow-release
fertilizers are worked into the soil ususally only once during the growing
season or per label directions. For organic fertilizers such as fish
emulsion, follow lable directions as they may vary per product.

Preparing Garden Beds
Use a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of soil prior
to beginning. This helps determine which plants are best suited for your
site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where water remains standing.
Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as
soon as they come up.
At 7-10 days before planting, add 2-4 in. of manure or compost and work into
the planting site to improve fertility. If soil composition is weak, add a
layer of topsoil as well. Whether sand or clay, soil can be improved by
adding ample organic matter. Work deep into the soil. 
Prepare beds 18 in. deep for perennials. This considerable effort will pay
off later. It's a bigger job once plants have become established.

Pests:

Spider Mites
Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot,
dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth
parts, causing plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant
death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly,
as a female lays up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce
a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.
Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air
seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered,
especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, and
tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the
nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. Sometimes
a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Dusting edibles
with sulfur  kills mites too. Insecticidal soaps can be used, but confirm
that it is OK for vegetables prior to spraying. On citrus or ornamentals,
spray with horticultural oil such as Sunspray. Insecticides don't kill mites
because mites are not insects. Mitacides must be used, but always verify
safety for your ornamental. Never use on food.

Tools:

Garden Shears
If you have a hedge, you'll need to invest in a good pair of shears. For
soft-stemmed hedges, a light weight pair is fine, but for larger, woodier
hedges, go for a heavy duty pair with nice handles. Shears should be
balanced and feel smooth when going through the shearing motion. Though most
shears have straight blades, a few have wavy-edges which makes cutting
through woody stems easier. Two common shears are: 

Standard Shears: Usually straight bladed, with one of the blades having a
notched area towards back. The notch helps cradle a thicker stem when
cutting.
Single-handed shears: Having a spring mechanism makes these easy to operate
with one hand. They should be used only to trim lawns and soft-stemmed
foliage such as liriope and mondo grass.


Watering Aides
No gardener depends entirely on natural rainfall. Even the most water
conscious garden appreciates the proper hose, watering can, or wand. 
Watering Cans: Whether you choose plastic or galvanized makes no difference,
but do look for generous capacity and a design that is balanced when filled
with water. A 2 gal. can (which holds 18 lbs. of water) is preferred by most
gardeners and is best suited for outdoor use. An indoor can should be
relatively smaller with a narrower spout and rose (filter head).
Watering Hose: Look for a hose that is double-walled, as it will resist
kinking. Quick coupler links are nice to have on ends of hoses to make
altering length fast. To extend the life of your hose, keep it wound around
a reel and stored in a shady area. Prior to winter freezes, drain hose.
Sprayers: Are commonly thought of as devices for applying chemicals, but can
really be a step saver for watering houseplants or small pots of annuals
rather that dragging out a hose or making numerous trips with a watering
can. The backpack sprayer is best suited for this. Take care not to use any
kind of chemical in tanks used for watering!
Sprinklers: Attached to the ends of a garden hose, a sprinkler acts as an
economical irrigation system. Standing spike sprinklers are intended for
lawns, and deliver water in a circular patter. Rotating sprinklers deliver a
circle of water and are perfect for lawns, shrubs and flower beds. Pulse-jet
sprinklers cover large areas of ground in a pulsating, circular pattern.
Oscillating sprinklers are best for watering at ground level in a
rectangular pattern.

 

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