campanula speedup
- To: perennials@mallorn.com
- Subject: campanula speedup
- From: D* G*
- Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 13:52:53 -0500
>
>Therein lies another problem I have --
>Keeping the soil warm and moist enough w/o mold developing.
If you have mold developing, you either have too much moisture or not
enough air circulation or more likely both. Air circulation will stop most
problems - we rarely saw rotting or mold problems once we solved the air
circulation problems on our propagation benches.
>I have not gotten heating cables yet; mainly b/c I'm not sure what to get or
>how to use them. But from what I've heard, they are more desirable than a
>heat mat. Have you written any articles or put anything in your newsletter
>about what you need and how to use them? Or can point me in the right
>direction to learn more about them?
Heat cables - heat mat - same thing or same effect if you control them with
a soil based thermostat. The mats normally come preset to a temp - the
small one I have is preset for 10-20F *over* ambient air temps so at a 65F
room - the soil temps will be 75+ (a little high for my liking but hey -
the mat was free to trial);-) Cables - I used eavestrough de-icing cables
controlled with a soil thermostat for years commercially. The thermostat
with a bulb attached to stick in a pot would give me precise control of the
soil temp.
>Do you lay out the cables under the tray the pots sit in?
Normally, I put the cables down - then lay a layer of thick aluminum foil
down over top of that to spread the heat evenly over the bench. You could
use damp sand or potting soil to do the same thing. The objective is to
avoid hot spots and provide an evenly warm surface for pots or trays.
When I use the mat this year, I'll do the same - lay it down and put a
layer of damp soil over top of the mat (it will be inside an old aquarium)
to even out the temps and humidity will be controlled with covers and small
fans.
>Or do you run them between the pots in the tray?
>And is the thermostat usually sold separate?
You can purchase thermostats/cables separately or the mats come as an
complete unit.
>If I fill a 4" pot, the bottom of the pot will be mucho warmer than the top.
>Would buying a special soil thermometer be better?
Soil thermometers are handy for checking the accuracy of your soil
thermostat but that's about all. And no- you won't see a major difference
between the top and bottom of a 4 inch pot.
>
I had no idea there would be such a large
>difference. Right now the air temp in the basement is F 62 so I wonder if
the
>poor things are getting frostbite.
Perennials will not get frostbite at 62F ;-)
>
><< Immediately after sowing pour hot water (hand hot as you can stand
without
>cringing -- not boiling) over them to soak them into the soil. >>
>Is there a special way of doing this w/o greatly disturbing the seed and
soil?
Damned if I know. :-) I'm sure there is if somebody wants to play around
with it - that always worked for me with a fine rose on the watering can.
Remember, we're talking about seed germination here and fast germination to
boot. We are not talking about growing on or feeding or any other
components to growing a good perennial plant. Seed germination is an
entirely different discussion than growing on and fast/regular seed
germination is another matter as well.
Other posts have pointed out that soil temps for growing a plant are
different than soil temps for germination. I only want to emphasize that
after your seeds are germinated, they come off the germination bench for
any further growing.
I believe it was Paul that said that high heat of growing would kill or
lead to spindly seedlings. I suspect that low light levels and improper
feeding will cause more spindly growth than will high soil temps. High
soil temps will accelerate growth and if the proper light and fertility are
not present then spindly seedlings will occur. However, if proper light,
feeding and seedling spacing are provided, growth will be fine under high
soil temperatures. I'm not aware of any perennial that will be killed by
72F soil temps when being grown on given adequate light and feeding levels.
Commercial growers routinely grow seeds in tiny cells called plugs (we used
to grow hundreds of flats of these every year) under optimum conditions of
growth for individual plants. The soil temperatures were always higher than
ambient air temps and light levels and fertility levels constantly
monitored to provide a stocky, fast growing transplant. And yes, perennials
and annuals were treated the same way when it came to plug growing.
However, Paul is correct - if the growing-on soil temps are too high
without making other adjustments - a poor plant will result.
Doug
Doug Green,
Freelance writer - "You need it - I write it."
Syndicated columnist and Contributing Writer
http://www.simplegiftsfarm.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------
To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@mallorn.com with the
message text UNSUBSCRIBE PERENNIALS
