Re: Weedblock
- To: perennials@mallorn.com
- Subject: Re: Weedblock
- From: P*@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 17:25:01 EDT
Jean,
I think the black plastic idea is better suited for killing weeds in bed
preparation rather than as a weedblock layer under stones or brick. Weedblock
material allows light and water to penetrate, so it drains as well as gives
you the option of inserting plants you WANT to grow. I've used Weedblock as a
bottom layer in a few paths I've made: leveling off the soil, then cutting
the Weedblock to size, then adding a mixture of small gravel and sand to hold
the stones in place. I think some sources recommend a full layer of gravel
and then a full layer of sand on top, rather than mixing the two in a single
layer. In places where
I wanted plants to grow, I added some rich soil/grit mixture between the
stones, slitting through the weedblock layer to slide the plant's roots in.
Groundcovers like Mazus reptans, Antennaria dioica, Phlox subulata, Pratia
penducalata, Achillea millefolium, and some sturdy mosses do well as path
plants. Make sure you place the weedblock shiny side up and allow enough
to cover at least 4" alongside the path's edge to help keep "creeping
charlie" at bay. There are, unfortunately, certain things that will always
find a way to where you don't want them. Oenothera speciosa immediately comes
to mind as archenemy supreme. I once went so far as to bury 12 " plastic
edging on crushed rock along an entire bed in order to DISCOURAGE the
selfishly aggressive Oenothera. I will be weeding it
out of every bed in all directions for the rest of my life. Also,
all weedblocks do wear out -- some in a few years, some in several seasons --
depending on conditions. For this reason too, I think it's especially
helpful in a path situation to have some things established that you like.*
No weedblock is 100% effective and it seems to work better in
some areas than in others; but I do think it helps.
Holly
Zone 7
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