Re: Weedblock
- To:
- Subject: Re: Weedblock
- From: M* T*
- Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 00:37:06 -0400
I agree with Holly, plastic is better for killing plants than as a
"weedblock".
I've put weedblock under paths and under holding beds, primarily to keep
the tree roots out. I have to say that it is only fairly effective.
Plants with aggressive root systems will grow right through it - Miscanthus
is one and Euphorbia characias is another. Have dug clumps of Miscanthus
that had been allowed to seed into one of the holding beds and grow,
complete with a nice layer of weedblock permanently embedded in their root
system.
Weedblock will not stop plants from seeding into the area where it is used
and you'd be surprised how many plants can grow away quite happily in the
few of inches of gravel and stone dust used to cover the weedblock in
paths. They spread their roots out widely instead of sending them down -
except for dandelions, who will grow straight down and right through
weedblock material.
One thing it does do for gravel, flagstone or brick paths on clay is stop
the path material from working down into the clay - which it would
otherwise do - and disappearing...acts as a geotechnical fabric in that
way. And, if there are no seams, it will discourage tree roots from
infiltrating an area - but there have to be NO seams. Even a generously
overlapped seam will be infiltrated by tree roots eventually...they are
crafty little devils where food and drink are concerned.
Most of the weedblock fabric you can get at garden centers and DIY stores
is sun (ultra violet ray?) sensitive. It will deteriorate in a few years
if exposed to sun. That's why you really need to make sure the edges are
as well covered as the center of whatever area you're using it in. I've
used the stuff that is sort of plastic-like, with one shiny side and stuff
that feels more like a heavy black Remay. The latter seems to deteriorate
after time, covered or not. By time, I'm talking 8 or 10 years, not
overnight.
Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland
mtalt@clark.net
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----------
> From: PolarisOn@aol.com
> Date: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 5:25 PM
>
> Jean,
> I think the black plastic idea is better suited for killing weeds in
bed
> preparation rather than as a weedblock layer under stones or brick.
Weedblock
> material allows light and water to penetrate, so it drains as well as
gives
> you the option of inserting plants you WANT to grow. I've used Weedblock
as a
> bottom layer in a few paths I've made: leveling off the soil, then
cutting
> the Weedblock to size, then adding a mixture of small gravel and sand to
hold
> the stones in place. I think some sources recommend a full layer of
gravel
> and then a full layer of sand on top, rather than mixing the two in a
single
> layer. In places
where
> I wanted plants to grow, I added some rich soil/grit mixture between the
> stones, slitting through the weedblock layer to slide the plant's roots
in.
> Groundcovers like Mazus reptans, Antennaria dioica, Phlox subulata,
Pratia
> penducalata, Achillea millefolium, and some sturdy mosses do well as path
> plants. Make sure you place the weedblock shiny side up and allow
enough
> to cover at least 4" alongside the path's edge to help keep "creeping
> charlie" at bay. There are, unfortunately, certain things that will
always
> find a way to where you don't want them. Oenothera speciosa immediately
comes
> to mind as archenemy supreme. I once went so far as to bury 12 " plastic
> edging on crushed rock along an entire bed in order to DISCOURAGE the
> selfishly aggressive Oenothera. I will be
weeding it
> out of every bed in all directions for the rest of my life.
Also,
> all weedblocks do wear out -- some in a few years, some in several
seasons --
> depending on conditions. For this reason too, I think it's especially
> helpful in a path situation to have some things established that you
like.*
> No weedblock is 100% effective and it seems to work better in
> some areas than in others; but I do think it helps.
>
> Holly
> Zone 7
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