Re: hints for moving a large shrub (cross posted)
- Subject: Re: hints for moving a large shrub (cross posted)
- From: Steve Hatch s*@gis.net
- Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 11:11:05 -0400
That's good advice, Paul. Thanks.
Meum71@aol.com wrote:
> Now is not the best time to move woody material that has not been root
> pruned, but timing is some times out of our control.
> The shrubs that loose there leaves in the fall should be trimmed back heavily
> (1/2 0r a little more)
> First dig the new holes and have those locations all ready for planting
> before you remove the plants. You do not want the roots to dry out at all
> after digging so it should be out of one hole and into the new one in as
> little time as possible.
>
> If your soil is good your shrubs might have a good root system with many
> small feeder roots near the surface-try to save as many of those as possible
> by removing a large surface area of soil, cut the deeper heaver roots as far
> down as possible buy they are not as important as the smaller roots.
>
> If your soil is poor your plants will not have to many of the feeder roots
> and you will have to remove the shrubs with as much of the root system as you
> can.
>
> You might be able to make a root ball but most likely that will not work
> unless you root pruned the shrubs a few months ago-the trick is not how much
> soil you move but the amount of undamaged root structure you move.
>
> Plant your removed shrubs right away and fill in with good fine soils- (no
> peatmoss) water in well so there are no large air pockets left in the soil,
> it is also helpful to use a transplanting/rooting liquid but no fertilizer.
>
> Keep the plants watered well untill the ground freezes.
>
> For plants that are evergreen use a spray that prevents the leaves from
> drying out and or cover with burlap sack over the winter.
>
> The main problem with moving woody plants this late in the year is that they
> do not have a root system that can replace water lost during late fall and
> winter and the tissue dries out and dies-so die back might be a problem. The
> sooner you get it done the better-unless the temps are very high, new root
> growth should start in two weeks.
>
> Try to save as many of the small surface roots as you can-the large deep
> roots are less important.
>
> Paul
>
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--
Steve Hatch
Marshfield, MA
Zone 6B
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