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Re: seeding advice

The most desirable option would be to drill the seedings yet this fall. 
You are now in a period where soil temperatures are cool enough to
prevent germination.  Germinating seeds need at least 30-45 days prior
to the first frost to establish sufficiently to survive the winter. 
Seeds that germinate after this period typically don't survive the
winter.  You expressed that soil conditions will not likely dry before
the ground freezes.  I would not try to drill the seeds in frozen soil
because the drill will not likely cover the seeds adequately by closing
the seed trench.  Winter freezing and thawing may however take care of
this problem but there is no way to predict accurately that it will.  A
natural soil would probably freeze/thaw the seed trench shut but I doubt
the plots with the fill soil will.  Since this is an experiment I think
it is important to seed all of the plots on the same day if possible. 
At least if the plots were all seeded during the dormant season there
would be comparability of the results that would not be confounded by
different planting dates.  As a practical matter you are probably
correct in assuming that good seeding conditions will not occur again
until next spring.  In your description of the seeding treatments, you
did not mention how many times that each treatment was replicated.  If
there is not any replication then frankly you have an "experience" not
an "experiment" and without any replication there can be no statistical
analysis.  This not all bad because one can gain some insight by trying
different methods side by side it is just that you cannot statistically
compare the results.  If the seeding treatments are repeated at other
locations in the same year you can treat each location as a replicate.
You also did not indicate how you intended to measure the results.  Just
out of curiosity did the wet soil conditions prevent the hydroseeding
treatment?  If not this treatment probably could be applied when the
ground freezes.  I can imagine that all of these complications were
frustrating.  Welcome to the wonderful world of agronomic field
research.  Sometimes the best laid plans fail.  This is part of it so
try not to be discouraged.  Efforts like these can and do provide good
information.  I would suggest that in the future when you rent a drill,
go a head and rent a tractor at a rental store and drive it yourself. 
This takes away some of the things that go wrong have little control
over.  Finding a tractor, driver and a drill makes for three things that
all have to be in "sync"  If you're the driver that rents the tractor
then all you have to worry about is the drill.  Another way of going
about this is to find some one who does this type of thing on a custom
basis.  Many of your local chapters of Pheasants Forever, Quail
Unlimited, and Ducks Unlimited are great resources to get to know.  In
many states, the State Wildlife Conservation Agencies often have
wildlife biologists that have access to this kind of equipment.  I hope
this helps good luck!

Brett Roberts
Illinois State Conservation Agronomist
USDA-Natural Resources Conservation Service
Champaign, Illinois

Theresa Mau-Crimmins wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm working on a bank stabilization and erosion control project and have
> convinced the decision-makers to use prairie grasses and forbs on a
> portion of the level area rather than the traditional turf grasses used
> in such efforts at industrial areas.  However, getting the stuff planted
> has been more than a little frustrating.  After being put off for months
> due to red tape and other issues, we got a cover crop in at the end of
> August.  I was recommended to plant the prairie seeds on the ~5 acre
> site using the local Conservation District's seed drill, which I've
> secured.  Finding a tractor and someone to drive it was also a problem,
> so we finally got around to seeding yesterday, November 15!
> 
> The problem is this: this is an experimental site.  The level area was
> divided into three plots.  One received the traditional treatment of
> added topsoil and hydroseeded turf grasses (kentucky bluegrass, etc.).
> The middle plot also received topsoil but is to be planted with native
> grasses and forbs.  The third plot had no topsoil added and was to
> receive the grasses and forbs.  We were able to seed the no-topsoil area
> yesterday, but could not seed the topsoil area because the soil was very
> wet and the seed drill almost got stuck in it.  Now I'm concerned about
> whether we will be able to plant this section this year, as the weather
> here in southwest Michigan is getting colder and wetter by the day.
> 
> I see four options:
> 
> 1. Hold out for dry weather sometime this fall and seed then using the
> drill. (unlikely).
> 
> 2.  Wait till the ground freezes and seed using the drill (would this
> work?)
> 
> 3.  Seed by hand.  I've been told that this is not as desirable because
> the cover crop is fairly thick right now.  The concerns are that the
> seed would either not get far enough into the soil, blow away, or be
> eaten by the birds.
> 
> 4. Wait and seed in the spring with the seed drill.  This would be
> difficult because it would involve getting both the seed drill and the
> tractor back to the site again (no small task!)
> 
> I would appreciate your input.  Have any of you out there faced similar
> circumstances?  Has anyone hand-seeded into a cover crop with success?
> 
> Thanks for your advice,
> Theresa Mau-Crimmins
> Kalamazoo, Michigan
> 
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