Re: pumpkins DIGEST V1 #143
As fas as moving the hole a little ways from the old one, I would suggest growing the opposite direction if possible. That way if it is a localized problem to that hole or area, your pumpkin will be well established, hopefully have a pumpkin set and have limited contact with that spot at the end of its main. So instead of your planned A to B, I would plant B to A and see how that works.
Good Luck
----- Original Message ----
From: pumpkins DIGEST <pumpkins-owner@hort.net>
To: pumpkins-digest@hort.net
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 1:01:01 AM
Subject: pumpkins DIGEST V1 #143
pumpkins DIGEST Thursday, April 26 2007 Volume 01 : Number 143
In this issue:
Re: Fertilizing Question
Interesting Question
Fertilizing Question
Fw: Fw: california seed contest
Re: Pumpkin growing Question
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 00:42:43 -0400
From: mastrpumkn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fertilizing Question
Jordon,
The ones coated with Sulfer may lower your PH. Buy the ones that say Poly coated something or other. I use them. Ask Steve Jepsen.
-----Original Message-----
From: jordan.rivington@gmail.com
To: pumpkins@hort.net
Sent: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 9:16 PM
Subject: Fertilizing Question
Has anyone ever used turf granular fertilizers (poly coat) that provide time
release nutrients instead if water soluble ones?
Thanks
Jordan Rivington
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Pumpkin-growing archives: http://www.hort.net/lists/pumpkins/
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 21:13:36 -0400
From: "Jordan Rivington" <jordan.rivington@gmail.com>
Subject: Interesting Question
I really hate spraying, both due to the safety concers of airborn mist, and
because it is a pain to ensure full coverage. Since I already run drip
irrigation, to add some sprayers on another zone would be cheaper than
buying a respirator, full pvc suit, and hood. Has anyone setup an irrigation
system using mini sprayer (90, 180, 360, strip) to target only their garden.
I have a 3 foot fence so I could put vapor barrier on the inside to ensure
no spray got out. You could turn it on only on calm days to prevent any
additional over spray. Would it be any worse than hand spraying? You could
set some sprayers at ground level to hit undersides, stalks, and vines, and
a sprayers on 18" risers to hit the surfaces of the leaves. You could test
with water to ensure 100 percent coverage.
FYI, I would be spraying Ortho's Garden Disease Control (30% chlorothalonil)
for a fungicide, and a new product called Sianara which contains the same
amount of lambda-cyhalrothin as in Scimitar, Battle, Karate, Demand,
Warrior, etc.
I would still water by drippers at nodes so as to not wash off spray.
Comments?
Jordan Rivington
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 21:16:45 -0400
From: "Jordan Rivington" <jordan.rivington@gmail.com>
Subject: Fertilizing Question
Has anyone ever used turf granular fertilizers (poly coat) that provide time
release nutrients instead if water soluble ones?
Thanks
Jordan Rivington
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 19:05:06 -0700
From: "cindi" <theglasiers@mindspring.com>
Subject: Fw: Fw: california seed contest
OKAY...WHO IS READY FOR THE CALIFORNIA COLOSSAL CUCURBIT CONTEST 2007???? HERE
IS THE SCOOP.......................... CALIFORNIA COLOSSAL CUCURBIT CONTEST
2007 THIS CONTEST HAS TWO GOALS.1. TO PROMOTE THE GROWING OF CALIFORNIA
SEEDS2. TO HAVE FUN RULES1. THE FRUIT MUST BE GROWN FROM A SEED FROM A
CALIFORNIA GROWN PUMPKIN OR SQUASH2. THE FRUIT MUST BE WEIGHED AT AN
ACCREDITED WEIGHOFF. NO DAMAGED, UNOFFICIAL WEIGHT OR ESTIMATED WEIGHT ENTRIES
ARE ELIGIBLE.3. THE PUMPKIN MUST BE GROWN BY THE PERSON ENTERING IT.4. THE
GROWER MUST BE A CALIFORNIA RESIDENT5. IN HOUSEHOLDS WITH MORE THAN ONE
GROWER, EACH GROWER MUST PAY AN ENTRY FEE TO BE ELIGIBLE FOR CASH AWARDS.6.
ONLY ONE CASH AWARD PER GROWER.7. IN THE EVENT OF A TIE, THE PRIZE MONEY FOR
THOSE TWO PLACES WILL BE ADDED TOGETHER AND DIVIDED EQUALLY BETWEEN THE TWO
ENTRIES.8. $25 ENTRY FEE MUST BE POSTMARKED BEFORE JUNE 15TH, 2007. MAKE
CHECKS PAYABLE TO PAM VANDERSCHOOT AND MAIL TO: PAM VANDERSCHOOT, 1047 PETRA
DR. NAPA, CA 94558/ ENTRIES POSTMARKED LATER THAN JUNE 15, 2007 WILL BE
RETURNED. PRIZE MONEY WILL BE DISTRIBUTED AS FOLLOWS...1ST= 40% OF PRIZE MONEY
POT2ND= 25% OF PRIZE MONEY POT3RD= 15% OF PRIZE MONEY POT4TH= 10% OF PRIZE
MONEY POT5TH= 10% OF PRIZE MONEY POT
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 20:52:21 -0400
From: "Jordan Rivington" <jordan.rivington@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pumpkin growing Question
Could have been SVB. They cause me alot of problems. A dying vine would
beging to yellow. It could have also been a lack of nitrogen (can anyone
back this up) but thats a guess. If you had fungus or SVB moving your hold a
few feet probably wont make a difference. You would need to move to a whole
new area. If you are like me though, you only have one area, and will have
to stick it out and see what happens.
I learned the hard way that spraying should be preventative, not to correct
a problem. Dont get me wrong, it may fix the problem, but it is much more
effective at stopping pests before they start. Look at the common
pests/diseases in your area and see when they come to town. SVB come in June
and stick around for a month. They lay tons of little eggs that hatch in
9-14 days. You cant kill the eggs, but you can make sure that the plant is
covered in pesticides when the grubs emerge and begin eating. Systemic
pesticides also work, since they will circulate through the plant. In
general I would say that a multiple chemical routine is necessary to beat
them.
For those of you who do not like the use of pesticides, I see you point of
view. I have no children yet, spray at night when there is no wind, using
the proper precuations. Further, I spend way to much time in the patch to
have it ruined by anything (though it sometimes still works out that way).
This year I am trying some yellow buckets filled with water as this is
supposed to attract them and then they drown. There are some other "yellow"
options like pheremon traps that I will also try. I will let you know.
For fungus, I would check to make sure you dont have any powdery/downey
mildew ice cream species around. That is a species that harbours, or is very
susceptible to, these mildews. I found out that some nearby plants were
extremely covered with powdery mildew and it was likely blowing over to the
patch. Other cucurbits could be kept away from the patch too, so as to not
attract any diseases/pests.
Mini greenhouses work for keeping things warm (and sometimes buried heating
cables).
Does anyone agree/disagree, no one knows everything and I will do whatever
works best.
Jordan Rivington
On 4/24/07, jthale@earthlink.net <jthale@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> Thanks for the reply. How are you keeping your plants warm? Question about
> the insecticide and fungicide, are you using them on an as needed basis?
> Have you heard about mixing anything into the soil before hand? I'm a
> little scared about planting in the same area or do you think I should
> move
> the hole away from the last one a little ways. I can't seem to find anyone
> to tell me what was the cause of the vine yellowing. Thanks for your
> troubles, Jim
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: <DBHASKARAN@aol.com>
> > To: <pumpkins@hort.net>
> > Date: 4/24/07 12:30:14 AM
> > Subject: Re: Pumpkin growing Question
> >
> > Jim,
> > Every year I dig up(by hand) a 9' Diameter circle(ok 8' last
> year) about
> > 24-30" deep and replace with manure and compost mixed via a rototiller
> in
> 2
> > stages..fill half rototill, fill last half and rototill.
> > I add in the mychrozzie(sp) for the roots, and also some lime, gypsum,
> etc.
> > In about a month , I'll used Triazicide (insecticide) and Daconil
> > (fungicide)...later(July/Aug) I sparing use one call Maxx...which helps
> keep the plant
> > leaves last longer for later growth. Also use Fish and Seaweed natural
> > fertilizers and calcium.
> > This year I'm looking at adding into that a compost tea.
> > So far I have been very lucky (knock on wood)...but I think it does help
> to
> > replace the soil each year around the pumpkin plant(s) with new fresh
> stuff.
> > Good Luck!
> > David Bhaskaran
> > Rochester, MN (Where I have 10 plants outside already....brrr! :-)
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 4/23/2007 7:25:47 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> > jthale@earthlink.net writes:
> >
> > Hello,
> > My name is Jim Hale and I wanted to ask your opinion on adding
> fungiside
> (
> > what kind) and or insecticide to the soil before planting. I haven't
> added
> > anything to my soil before, but last year I had a beautiful plant
> started
> > and about the first of july the main vine started to turn yellow at the
> > base and the yellowing slowly started working its way down the vine,
> > radiating out the secondaries. It finally died. I believe some thing
> came
> > from the soil and into the plant. Is it O.K. to plant in the same
> location
> > year after year. What do you recommend I should do? Any info would be
> > helpful.
> > Thanks, Jim
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ************************************** See what's free at
> http://www.aol.com.
End of pumpkins DIGEST V1 #143
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