I cannot believe you guys are still here. This was the original and
only site
for pumpkins when I first started growing them. I have read the
postings here
and they are still great. This site definately has its place. It
seems
friendly here. Keep it up guys. Marv Meisner
-----Original Message-----
From: pumpkins DIGEST <pumpkins-owner@hort.net>
To: pumpkins-digest <pumpkins-digest@hort.net>
Sent: Sun, Apr 29, 2012 4:02 am
Subject: pumpkins DIGEST V1 #755
umpkins DIGEST Sunday, April 29 2012 Volume 01 :
Number 755
In this issue:
Re: seedling mounds
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 07:30:12 -0700 (PDT)
rom: Debbie Runkle <yorunk13@att.net>
ubject: Re: seedling mounds
I can only go down about 10" before I hit clay. What kind of
fertilizer?
_______________________________
rom: George & Carolyn Heyne <gheyne@millcomm.com>
o: pumpkins@hort.net
ent: Fri, April 27, 2012 2:41:50 PM
ubject: Re: seedling mounds
Debbie,
For each of my pumpkin plants, I dig a hole about 20-22 inches deep
with a
three
foot diameter. I have no rocks in my soil, so it is a fairly easy
dig. The
hole
s filled with soil taken out, compost, fertilizer, peat, mole
repellant,
ycorrhizal fungi, etc. There is a very slight mound when the hole is
completely
filled which does not allow water to stand around the stump.
Throughout the growing season, water containing fish/seaweed,
BiotaMax,
calcium,
etc is poured around the stump. Since the soil is loose and with
the slight
lope, the water mixture quickly drains down through the soil.. I
have had no
roblems with the stump rotting. Hope that helps.
George Heyne
ochester, MN
----- Original Message ----- From: "Debbie Runkle" <yorunk13@att.net>
o: <pumpkins@hort.net>
ent: Friday, April 27, 2012 8:17 AM
ubject: Re: seedling mounds
Do you water around the mound during the season? Also, do you use
anything
special for your mounds, i.e. compost, etc.
________________________________
From: George & Carolyn Heyne <gheyne@millcomm.com>
To: pumpkins@hort.net
Sent: Thu, April 26, 2012 4:27:05 PM
Subject: Re: seedling mounds
Debbie,
I have just a very small mound for my pumpkin plants. There is just
enough
slope
so that water will not stand around the base of the plant.
George Heyne
----- Original Message ----- From: "Debbie Runkle" <yorunk13@att.net>
To: <pumpkins@hort.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: seedling mounds
uh, I am still unclear the size of the mound (diameter and
height). It
can't
be
too large since I will be placing a 8'Lx6'W greenhouse over it.
Since I
lost
all of my pumpkins last year (one was barely maturing when it
rotted) I'm a
little paranoid this year.
Debbie
________________________________
From: "dbhaskaran@aol.com" <dbhaskaran@aol.com>
To: pumpkins@hort.net
Sent: Wed, April 25, 2012 10:15:04 PM
Subject: Re: seedling mounds
Here is something I wrote a bit ago and have continued to
update...later
here
is a section on the "pits" or Mounds....
Davebs Early Season Work!
Ah, the precious seeds:
The watermelons are first up and I start them late March. To
start the
eeds,
I place them in warm damp folded napkins in zip lock bags that are
labeled
with the genetics. I put the zip lock bags into my germination
chamber.
This
chamber is a 40 qt Coleman cooler. I place into the cooler a
heating mat
that
is controlled by a digital temp controller and set it for 90
degrees. I
also
put 2b of Styrofoam on the mat, so when I have the seeds resting
on that
(and the temp probe) it is pretty even heat. The key is 90 deg and
table..if
colder they might not germinateb&they are very fussyb&.not like
pumpkins.
In my basement, I have my grow lights set up (4 lights across).
Under the
lights, I have a flat with an 8b dome and 4b clay pots ready to go
(small
greenhouse). I have a heat mat under the flat and with the
warmth from
the
lights keep it at about 80-85 degrees. I do not turn the lights
off.
However, I do open up the dome (has vents) to keep the humidity
down a
bitb&otherwise the plants will rot fast.
The seeds are checked and once sprouted, are moved down to the 4b
clay
pots
and are tagged for genetics. Normally about 1-3 days to sprout.
Once they
break ground...another 2-4 daysb&I try to remove the dome and get
them
bdryb again. The dome is used with the heat mat to keep the temp
warm
until the seedlings are out of the ground. I try to keep the grow
lights
about 3b off the plant. Once they have formed a true leaf (3rd
one), I
transplant them to a 1 gallon Kempbs ice cream bucket. This bucket
has been
turned over and the bottom cut off and the lid is now the
base(making into
a
big pot). This makes for easy transplanting to the garden, as I
just pop
the
lid and it slides into the hole in the garden without bothering
the roots.
(Note: This is a George Heyne trick.) I try to get 1-2 ft vine
before
transplanting to the garden.
For pumpkins, I apply the same process, except for a few changes.
Temp is
lowerb&80-90 degrees. I start them around April 15th. They will
also
sprout
faster, 30-48 hrs. I move the sprouted seeds to 6b clay pots and
then will
transfer them to the garden by end of April, as they grow fast!
So they
just
stay a few days in the pots (5-7 days).
I use a premium seed starter bag and mix it with a normal potting
soil bag
nd
then also add some Mychro rhizza (BIO ENDO GROW from Hollandbs web
site:
http://www.hollandsgiants.com/).
Ah, the painful pits:
I have prepared the garden with cow manure and compost piles for
each of my
5
bpitsb.
Plus in 2012, Ibll try to add black soil to lower my Organic %. (no
compost)
This was done in the fall and all unloaded by handJ. I first mark
off a 10
t
diameter circle and then start shoveling and keeping the soil
clear of the
holeb&so maybe 3 feet between the circle and the old dirt. This is
used as
a
way to bring in the manure and compost with a big wheelbarrow.
You will
also
need to leave some gaps for the wheelbarrow to access the bpitb.
Once I
have dug it out, around 2ft deepb&about 2-3 hours of digging per
hole. I
refill the hole back with a mixture of compost and manure and also
rototill
t
as I go. I also add these items:
65 lbs Humates
65 lbs Kelp
65 lbs Calphos
25 lbs Gypsum
80 lbs Worm Casting
03 lbs Mychro rhizza
65 lbs Lime
1/3 bag of peat
This also gets tilled in.
Now, I put a 6 B= ft metal post right in the middle of the
circle. This
will
be used later to know where the 2 stumps are (2 plants on each
side of the
post are grown via the Xmas tree method). I also use the post to
hang
sprinklers and run a hose up it and out of the garden for access,
later in
he
year. Ibll also drop some boards perpendicular to the post and
stumpsb&as
an access walk to the stumps.
Next, I put in my 40 ft heating cables in a circle around the
postb&about
6-9
inches further out each time. I put the plug into a Kemps ice-
cream bucket
o
protect it from rain and also to run a power cord to it. I put
small holes
n
the side for the cords and one in bottom for drainage. I place a
rock
inside,
to keep it anchored and one on top of the lid.
The final touch is to build up an 8b mound of soil around where
the plant
will go (small pit) and use 4x4s cut to lengths that go on top of
the
mound
area to raise it higher so that I can put a window panel on top
(cheap
greenhouse)b&since these plants go out before end the Aprilb&they
need to
be
able to handle some very cold nights plus snow. Once they outgrow
this, I
ut
a remay over them with 9 gauge wire. I will create a series of
loops down
he
path the main vine will go later for main vine (bgolden pipeb)
protection.
Note: I also put in 2 6b pots into the soil as if the plants were
there so
when I do bring out the plantsb&I just pull the pot and put the
potted
plant
right there.
As you can see for 10 plants/5 holesb&this takes a lot of
hoursb&.and this
is just for the pumpkins! I do a lot less for the watermelon, but a
similar
pattern.
I hope this helps!
David Bhaskaran
1355 lbs is my biggest ever grown pumpkin in 2009.
195 lbs is my biggest ever watermelon in 2007.
194.5 lbs in 2010
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan R. Laginess <alaginess@bop.gov>
To: pumpkin <pumpkins@hort.net>
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2012 9:20 pm
Subject: Re: seedling mounds
You may want to take a look at www.bigpumpkins.com There is a lot
of
nfo on the site for you to use. I would get some bags of compost and
ake you mounds with that and regular garden soil. Mix in some
micro for
etter root growth.
Debbie Runkle <yorunk13@att.net> 4/25/2012 9:00 PM >>>
hat type of soil/compost do I need for my planting mounds? Also,
how
arge
hould they be?
Is it better to start your seedlings in peat pots rather than
regular
ots?
Debbie
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