Re: rotting stem


Jeff,
If the stem has rotted through and no "energy" can be given to the
pumpkin...that is still ok..however, you have to be careful of the rot of the
stem into the pumpkin cavity...I have seen this on trying to keep pumpkins for
months after....you will need to clean up the stem so that there is no rot and
get it dried out...either via the sun or via a fan.
Hope this helps.
Dave Bhaskaran
Rochester, MN



-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Potter <maple-leaf@kpe.biglobe.ne.jp>
To: pumpkins <pumpkins@hort.net>
Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 6:15 pm
Subject: Re: rotting stem


I am fairly new to growing pumpkins, (3 years), and this year I have a
ersonal best, estimated at about 300 lbs. The stem has gone soft, my baby
sn't growing anymore. I'd like to keep the pumpkin until Halloween, can
nybody give me advice on how and what to do? I live in Japan, it is still
ery very hot, and will remain so well into October. Easily over 90 every
ay.
hanks,
Jeff Potter
---- Original Message -----
rom: <lubadub@aol.com>
o: <pumpkins@mallorn.com>
ent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 9:46 PM
ubject: Re: pumpkins DIGEST V1 #755

I cannot believe you guys are still here. This was the original and only
site
 for pumpkins when I first started growing them. I have read the postings
 here
 and they are still great. This site definately has its place. It seems
 friendly here. Keep it up guys.   Marv Meisner



 -----Original Message-----
 From: pumpkins DIGEST <pumpkins-owner@hort.net>
 To: pumpkins-digest <pumpkins-digest@hort.net>
 Sent: Sun, Apr 29, 2012 4:02 am
 Subject: pumpkins DIGEST V1 #755



 umpkins DIGEST         Sunday, April 29 2012         Volume 01 : Number
 755

 In this issue:
        Re: seedling mounds
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 07:30:12 -0700 (PDT)
 rom: Debbie Runkle <yorunk13@att.net>
 ubject: Re: seedling mounds
 I can only go down about 10" before I hit clay.  What kind of fertilizer?


 _______________________________
 rom: George & Carolyn Heyne <gheyne@millcomm.com>
 o: pumpkins@hort.net
 ent: Fri, April 27, 2012 2:41:50 PM
 ubject: Re: seedling mounds
 Debbie,
 For each of my pumpkin plants, I dig a hole about 20-22 inches deep with a
 three
 foot diameter. I have no rocks in my soil, so it is a fairly easy dig. The
 hole
 s filled with soil taken out, compost, fertilizer, peat, mole repellant,
 ycorrhizal fungi, etc. There is a very slight mound when the hole is
 completely
 filled which does not allow water to stand around the stump.
 Throughout the growing season, water containing fish/seaweed, BiotaMax,
 calcium,
 etc is poured around the stump. Since the soil is loose and with the
 slight
 lope, the water mixture quickly drains down through the soil.. I have had
 no
 roblems with the stump rotting. Hope that helps.
 George Heyne
 ochester, MN

 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Debbie Runkle" <yorunk13@att.net>
 o: <pumpkins@hort.net>
 ent: Friday, April 27, 2012 8:17 AM
 ubject: Re: seedling mounds

 Do you water around the mound during the season?  Also, do you use
 anything
 special for your mounds, i.e. compost, etc.





 ________________________________
 From: George & Carolyn Heyne <gheyne@millcomm.com>
 To: pumpkins@hort.net
 Sent: Thu, April 26, 2012 4:27:05 PM
 Subject: Re: seedling mounds

 Debbie,

 I have just a very small mound for my pumpkin plants. There is just enough
 slope
 so that water will not stand around the base of the plant.

 George Heyne

 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Debbie Runkle" <yorunk13@att.net>
 To: <pumpkins@hort.net>
 Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 10:34 AM
 Subject: Re: seedling mounds


> uh, I am still unclear the size of the mound (diameter and height).  It
 can't
> be
> too large since I will be placing a 8'Lx6'W greenhouse over it.  Since I
 lost
> all of my pumpkins last year (one was barely maturing when it rotted) I'm
> a
> little paranoid this year.
>
> Debbie
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: "dbhaskaran@aol.com" <dbhaskaran@aol.com>
> To: pumpkins@hort.net
> Sent: Wed, April 25, 2012 10:15:04 PM
> Subject: Re: seedling mounds
>
> Here is something I wrote a bit ago and have continued to update...later
 here
> is a section on the "pits" or Mounds....
> Davebs Early Season Work!
>
> Ah, the precious seeds:
> The watermelons are first up and I start them late March.  To start the
 eeds,
> I place them in warm damp folded napkins in zip lock bags that are
> labeled
> with the genetics.  I put the zip lock bags into my germination chamber.
 This
> chamber is a 40 qt Coleman cooler. I place into the cooler a heating mat
 that
> is controlled by a digital temp controller and set it for 90 degrees.  I
 also
> put 2b of Styrofoam on the mat, so when I have the seeds resting on that
> (and the  temp probe) it is pretty even heat. The key is 90 deg and
 table..if
> colder they might not germinateb&they are very fussyb&.not like pumpkins.
>
> In my basement, I have my grow lights set up (4 lights across). Under the
> lights, I have a flat with an 8b dome and 4b clay pots ready to go (small
> greenhouse).   I have a heat mat under the flat and with the warmth from
 the
> lights keep it at about 80-85 degrees. I  do not turn the lights off.
> However, I do open up the dome (has vents) to keep the humidity down a
> bitb&otherwise the plants will rot fast.
>
> The seeds are checked and once sprouted, are moved down to  the 4b clay
 pots
> and are tagged for genetics.  Normally about 1-3 days to sprout.  Once
> they
> break ground...another 2-4 daysb&I try to remove the dome and get them
> bdryb again.  The dome is used with the heat mat to keep the temp warm
> until the seedlings are out of the ground.  I try to keep the grow lights
> about 3b off the plant.  Once they have formed a true leaf (3rd one), I
> transplant them to a 1 gallon Kempbs ice cream bucket. This bucket has
> been
> turned over and the bottom cut off and the lid is now the base(making
> into
 a
> big pot).  This makes for easy transplanting to the garden, as I just pop
 the
> lid and it slides into the hole in the garden without bothering the
> roots.
> (Note: This is a George Heyne trick.) I try to get 1-2 ft vine before
> transplanting to the garden.
>
> For pumpkins, I apply the same process, except for a few changes.  Temp
> is
> lowerb&80-90 degrees. I start them around April 15th.  They will also
 sprout
> faster, 30-48 hrs.  I move the sprouted seeds to 6b clay pots and then
> will
> transfer them to the garden by end of April, as they grow fast!  So they
 just
> stay a few days in the pots (5-7 days).
>
> I use a premium seed starter bag and mix it with a normal potting soil
> bag
 nd
> then also add some Mychro rhizza (BIO ENDO GROW from Hollandbs web site:
> http://www.hollandsgiants.com/).
>
>
> Ah, the painful pits:
> I have prepared the garden with cow manure and compost piles for each of
> my
 5
> bpitsb.
> Plus in 2012, Ibll try to add black soil to lower my Organic %. (no
> compost)
> This was done in the fall and all unloaded by handJ.  I first mark off a
> 10
 t
> diameter circle and then start shoveling and keeping the soil clear of
> the
> holeb&so maybe 3 feet between the circle and the old dirt. This is used
> as
 a
> way to bring in the manure and compost with a big wheelbarrow.  You will
 also
> need to leave some gaps for the wheelbarrow to access the bpitb.  Once I
> have dug it out, around 2ft deepb&about 2-3 hours of digging per hole. I
> refill the hole back with a mixture of compost and manure and also
> rototill
 t
> as I go.  I also add these items:
> 65 lbs Humates
> 65 lbs Kelp
> 65 lbs Calphos
> 25 lbs Gypsum
> 80 lbs Worm Casting
> 03 lbs Mychro rhizza
> 65 lbs Lime
> 1/3 bag of peat
> This also gets tilled in.
>
> Now, I put a 6 B= ft metal post right in the middle of the circle.  This
 will
> be used later to know where the 2 stumps are (2 plants on each side of
> the
> post are grown via the Xmas tree method).  I also use the post to hang
> sprinklers and run a hose up it and out of the garden for access, later
> in
 he
> year.  Ibll also drop some boards perpendicular to the post and
> stumpsb&as
> an access walk to the stumps.
>
> Next, I put in my 40 ft heating cables in a circle around the postb&about
 6-9
> inches further out each time.  I put the plug into a Kemps ice-cream
> bucket
 o
> protect it from rain and also to run a power cord to it.  I put small
> holes
 n
> the side for the cords and one in bottom for drainage. I place a rock
 inside,
> to keep it anchored and one on top of the lid.
>
> The final touch is to build up an 8b mound of soil around where the plant
> will go (small pit) and  use 4x4s cut to lengths that go on top of the
 mound
> area to raise it higher so that I can put a window panel on top (cheap
> greenhouse)b&since these plants go out before end the Aprilb&they need to
 be
> able to handle some very cold nights plus snow.  Once they outgrow this,
> I
 ut
> a remay over them with 9 gauge wire.  I will create a series of loops
> down
 he
> path the main vine will go later for  main vine (bgolden pipeb)
> protection.
>
> Note: I also put in 2 6b pots into the soil as if the plants were there
> so
> when I do bring out the plantsb&I just pull the pot and put the potted
 plant
> right there.
>
> As you can see for 10 plants/5 holesb&this takes a lot of hoursb&.and
> this
> is just for the pumpkins!  I do a lot less for the watermelon, but a
 similar
> pattern.
>
> I hope this helps!
> David Bhaskaran
> 1355   lbs is my biggest ever grown pumpkin in 2009.
> 195     lbs is my biggest ever watermelon in 2007.
> 194.5  lbs in 2010
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan R. Laginess <alaginess@bop.gov>
> To: pumpkin <pumpkins@hort.net>
> Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2012 9:20 pm
> Subject: Re: seedling mounds
>
>
> You may want to take a look at www.bigpumpkins.com  There is a lot of
> nfo on the site for you to use. I would get some bags of compost and
> ake you mounds with that and regular garden soil. Mix in some micro for
> etter root growth.
>>>> Debbie Runkle <yorunk13@att.net> 4/25/2012 9:00 PM >>>
> hat type of soil/compost do I need for my planting mounds?  Also, how
> arge
> hould they be?
> Is it better to start your seedlings in peat pots rather than regular
> ots?
> Debbie
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> umpkin-growing archives: http://www.hort.net/lists/pumpkins/
> o sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the
> essage text UNSUBSCRIBE PUMPKINS
>
> his message is intended for official use and may
> ontain SENSITIVE information. If this message
> ontains SENSITIVE information, it should be
> roperly delivered, labeled, stored, and disposed
> f according to policy.b
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> umpkin-growing archives: http://www.hort.net/lists/pumpkins/
> o sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the
> essage text UNSUBSCRIBE PUMPKINS
 End of pumpkins DIGEST V1 #755
 *****************************

 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Pumpkin-growing archives: http://www.hort.net/lists/pumpkins/
 To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the
 message text UNSUBSCRIBE PUMPKINS
---------------------------------------------------------------------
umpkin-growing archives: http://www.hort.net/lists/pumpkins/
o sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the
essage text UNSUBSCRIBE PUMPKINS

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Pumpkin-growing archives: http://www.hort.net/lists/pumpkins/
To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the
message text UNSUBSCRIBE PUMPKINS



Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index