Re: cuke beetles

Debbie,
The yellow lady bug beetles are cucumber beetles. Aka cuke beetles. Aka diabrotica, the diabolical diabrotica. Get rid of them if you can. 
Good luck!
Kathie


On Jul 28, 2010, at 7:32 PM, Debbie Runkle wrote:
Sucks to be me! I plan on going to HD tomorrow to get Triazicide for the cuke beetles. I bought the wrong stuff the other day. Of course I have plans tomorrow night and won't be able to spray until Friday. At least I hope to get 
a free dinner out of it!
I think my neighbors got a kick out of me running through the patches holding a container with soap and water trying to get the beetles. It was quite an interesting dance. Can I spray dish soap and water using a household sprayer or will it hurt the plants. I would be much easier to spray in mid- flight and then 
laugh at their slow death (compliments of Dawn).
What are the yellow colored lady bug beetles? I know the orange ones are Asian 
beetles.

Debbie





________________________________
From: Robert Steckroth <robertsteckroth@gmail.com>
To: pumpkins@hort.net
Sent: Wed, July 28, 2010 9:00:45 PM
Subject: Re: cuke beetles
My patch is organic, haha. Is this a common problem in every state? Or will 
I get problems when the beatles stumble across my patch. Even my mold
stopped spreading! Sorry Deb, sometimes it only hurts other people.

On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 5:48 PM, <rstokes@wi.rr.com> wrote:
The most effective chemical on cucumber beetle is Lambda- cyhalothrin (aka Warrior T or Scimitar) These are not readily available to the average home gardner. However, Triaicide has a small percentage of this chemical in it. Usually you can buy Triaicide from Home Depot or other places that sell chemicals to home gardners. Lamda-cyhalothri is a synthetic pyrethrum and is used in food production. It is long lasting and the ready to harvest is usually around 21 days after a treatment of Lambda-cyhalothrin. I don't use Scimitar or Warror T for several reasons. One they are very expensive and a 
whiskey shot glass of Warrior T is all I would need for a season.  It
usually is sold in 2 1/2 gal. jugs so it comes in a volume way to large for my use. I use Triacide at 2 and three times the recommended rate and have 
good success in knocking back the cucumber beetle.  Also, using
Imidichloprin (Merit) as a drench, it works as a systemic and gives me a 
double punch in knocking out !
the cuke beetle and other pests. What I have experienced is that Triacide and a treatment of Merit keeps me cucumber beetle free for at least two weeks. These treatments also seem to be effective against squash bugs. Another factor to consider, is to be as effective as possible when applying a chemical. Use a sprayer that will put out a pattern that will coat the top and bottom and even the stems of the plants. I like to mix a cocktail of Triacide and Neptunes harvest together. I've had good results by doing this. I find that the best time to spray is around 5pm, there is still enough activity of the cuke beetle to get nailed as well as very little activity of honey bees which I try to protect. I might mention that I am certified and licensed by the state to buy and spray restricted chemicals. I 
have a little background in this area.

Hope this helps.


---- Jason Thomas <j.endlesstrail@gmail.com> wrote:

I think pyrethrins work on soft-bodied insects like aphids and not

beetles.
Usually the product labelling will list the insects that it is effective 
on.


On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 10:43 AM, Debbie Runkle <yorunk13@att.net>

wrote:



I purchased Spectracide Garden Insect Killer containing 0.3%

Pyrethrins.

I'm
guessing that I purchased the wrong stuff?  I sprayed a couple of

nights

ago and
they are still around.

Debbie





________________________________
From: Russ Stokes <rstokes@wi.rr.com>
To: pumpkins@hort.net
Sent: Sun, July 25, 2010 6:27:10 PM
Subject: Re: cuke beetles
I have been growing squash, pumpkins, gourds for a long time. Cucumber 
beetles
on your plant is a sure sign that if not treated promptly, more than 
likely

you
will get bacterial wilt. The bacteria proliferates while the beetle 
ingests
from an infected leaf and then passes the disease to the other leaves, 
until you
have a stunted dying plant.  Here is what I recommend:
Purchase Bayer Advance Fruit, Citrus and Vegetable Insect Control. It 
contains
Imidacloprid (Merit) I usually use the recommended dosage, dump this 
in a

5
gallon bucket and fill the bucket with water. Then for each plant I 
slowly

dump
the contents around the base of the plants.  This is a systemic

insecticide

so
it usually will kill insects that bite into the plant.  I then

thoroughly

spray
the leaves with Triazicide, again I use the recommended rate. I do all 
of

this
either in early morning or in the evening. These two controls works 
well

on
cuke beetle, squash bug and other pests.  Make sure you protect

yourself

from
the chemicals by wearing protective clothing or at least where long

pants

and a
shirt with glasses. The chemical in Triazicide is a synthetic pyrethrum 
and

if
it touches the skin you will feel a burning sensation and itch. Good 
Luck.


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