Re: cuke beetles

Sucks to be me!  I plan on going to HD tomorrow to get Triazicide for the cuke 
beetles.  I bought the wrong stuff the other day.  Of course I have plans 
tomorrow night and won't be able to spray until Friday.  At least I hope to get 
a free dinner out of it!  


I think my neighbors got a kick out of me running through the patches holding a 
container with soap and water trying to get the beetles.  It was quite an 
interesting dance.  Can I spray dish soap and water using a household sprayer or 
will it hurt the plants.  I would be much easier to spray in mid-flight and then 
laugh at their slow death (compliments of Dawn).

What are the yellow colored lady bug beetles?  I know the orange ones are Asian 
beetles.

Debbie





________________________________
From: Robert Steckroth <robertsteckroth@gmail.com>
To: pumpkins@hort.net
Sent: Wed, July 28, 2010 9:00:45 PM
Subject: Re: cuke beetles

My patch is organic, haha. Is this a common problem in every state? Or will
I get problems when the beatles stumble across my patch. Even my mold
stopped spreading! Sorry Deb, sometimes it only hurts other people.

On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 5:48 PM, <rstokes@wi.rr.com> wrote:

> The most effective chemical on cucumber beetle is Lambda-cyhalothrin (aka
> Warrior T or Scimitar)  These are not readily available to the average home
> gardner.  However, Triaicide has a small percentage of this chemical in it.
>  Usually you can buy Triaicide from Home Depot or other places that sell
> chemicals to home gardners. Lamda-cyhalothri is a synthetic pyrethrum and is
> used in food production. It is long lasting and the ready to harvest is
> usually around 21 days after a treatment of Lambda-cyhalothrin.  I don't use
> Scimitar or Warror T for several reasons.  One they are very expensive and a
> whiskey shot glass of Warrior T is all I would need for a season.  It
> usually is sold in 2 1/2 gal. jugs so it comes in a volume way to large for
> my use.  I use Triacide at 2 and three times the recommended rate and have
> good success in knocking back the cucumber beetle.  Also, using
> Imidichloprin (Merit) as a drench, it works as a systemic and gives me a
> double punch in knocking out !
>  the cuke beetle and other pests.  What I have experienced is that Triacide
> and a treatment of Merit keeps me cucumber beetle free for at least two
> weeks.  These treatments also seem to be effective against squash bugs.
>  Another factor to consider, is to be as effective as possible when applying
> a chemical. Use a sprayer that will put out a pattern that will coat the top
> and bottom and even the stems of the plants.  I like to mix a cocktail of
> Triacide and Neptunes harvest together.  I've had good results by doing
> this.  I find that the best time to spray is around 5pm, there is still
> enough activity of the cuke beetle to get nailed as well as very little
> activity of honey bees which I try to protect.  I might mention that I am
> certified and licensed by the state to buy and spray restricted chemicals. I
> have a little background in this area.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
>
> ---- Jason Thomas <j.endlesstrail@gmail.com> wrote:
> > I think pyrethrins work on soft-bodied insects like aphids and not
> beetles.
> > Usually the product labelling will list the insects that it is effective
> on.
> >
> > On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 10:43 AM, Debbie Runkle <yorunk13@att.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > > I purchased Spectracide Garden Insect Killer containing 0.3%
> Pyrethrins.
> > >  I'm
> > > guessing that I purchased the wrong stuff?  I sprayed a couple of
> nights
> > > ago and
> > > they are still around.
> > >
> > > Debbie
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Russ Stokes <rstokes@wi.rr.com>
> > > To: pumpkins@hort.net
> > > Sent: Sun, July 25, 2010 6:27:10 PM
> > > Subject: Re: cuke beetles
> > >
> > > I have been growing squash, pumpkins, gourds for a long time.  Cucumber
> > > beetles
> > > on your plant is a sure sign that if not treated promptly, more than
> likely
> > > you
> > > will get bacterial wilt.  The bacteria proliferates while the beetle
> > > ingests
> > > from an infected leaf and then passes the disease to the other leaves,
> > > until you
> > > have a stunted dying plant.  Here is what I recommend:
> > > Purchase Bayer Advance Fruit, Citrus and Vegetable Insect Control.  It
> > > contains
> > > Imidacloprid (Merit)  I usually use the recommended dosage, dump this
> in a
> > > 5
> > > gallon bucket and fill the bucket with water.  Then for each plant I
> slowly
> > > dump
> > > the contents around the base of the plants.  This is a systemic
> insecticide
> > > so
> > > it usually will kill insects that bite into the plant.  I then
> thoroughly
> > > spray
> > > the leaves with Triazicide, again I use the recommended rate.  I do all
> of
> > > this
> > > either in early morning or in the evening.  These two controls works
> well
> > > on
> > > cuke beetle, squash bug and other pests.  Make sure you protect
> yourself
> > > from
> > > the chemicals by wearing protective clothing or at least where long
> pants
> > > and a
> > > shirt with glasses. The chemical in Triazicide is a synthetic pyrethrum
> and
> > > if
> > > it touches the skin you will feel a burning sensation and itch.  Good
> Luck.
> > >
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"Finding the exit without looking"

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