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Re: Lavandula


Dear Duane:
	Root your lavender in a 3 part perlite, 1 part peat mixture, use
rooting hormone.  Don't cover the plants with plastic or keep too moist,
try to keep your area breezy. Always keep in mind that these plants are
Mediterranean by nature; they don't take kindly to too much wet cool
moist.
	Some cultivars readily root especially in early summer.  Other
cultivars seem to take forever. Tug on the plants to check for
rootings.  Sometimes in a common pot you'll have most of the cuttings
rooted.  If it is a desirable plant then I've repotted the unrooted
cuttings and given them a second treatment.  This may not be an
acceptable practice.  What do you think?
	Spacing also bothers me.  How close should the cuttings be to one
another?   Perhaps I crowd the plants too much.  
	Wonder if professionals use single pots for rooting or a community pot?
Somewhere I read plants root better in a community pot than an
individual pot.
	I've been using Logee's 2 1/2" wide by 2 inch tall pots for most of my
cuttings but in the heat of this summer started giving a little more
rooting material 2 1/2 x 4" deep pots thinking that they won't dry out
so quickly.
	The common thinking is that English lavender, Lavandula angustifolia
and cultivars, grows everywhere but some of the other lavenders need
protection.  Panayoti Kelaides, curator of the alpines at the Denver
Botanical Garden, remarked that some of the lavenders we're told to
protect, grow outdoors in Denver.  Did anyone save this message? I think
he referred to L. x intermedia that is also shown as hardy in the Herb
Society of America Ency. of Herbs by Deni Brown.  What about L. dendata
and L. stoechas, L. lanata? 
	Has anyone tried enough cuttings so they could experiment with lavender
hardiness?   I may have enough cuttings depending upon our appetite for
fresh Herbes de Provence.  With the Weather service's pediction of a
strong El Nino we should have a nice dry open warmish winter in the
north; good time to try the more tender Lavenders.
Best, Vicki


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