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Re: Azalea, decid. propagation
- To: s*@eskimo.com
- Subject: Re: Azalea, decid. propagation
- From: S* P* <s*@nh.ultranet.com>
- Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 09:13:43 -0400 (EDT)
- Resent-Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 06:14:39 -0700 (PDT)
- Resent-From: seeds-list@eskimo.com
- Resent-Message-ID: <"BOWK02.0.wl6.zujYp"@mx2>
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Another reply
Deciduous azaleas may be a bit more tricky than Joel's reply.
There are 2 problems to deciduous azaleas. First getting them to root and
then getting them to put on new growth. WRT the first, timing is important
and varies some with the species or hybrid but usually a softwood cutting is
the best ie the new growth is fully developed but not hardened off. You can
test by bending the cutting branch and it should not feel like it will snap.
If you are taking cuttings from species deciduous azalea that send out
stolons normally like R. atlanticum, arborecens, viscosum and
periclymenoides then they will most likely root easily. The roseshell
azalea, R. prinophyllum is very difficult. There is a lot of variability
among the hybrids, ie Exburys, Mollis, and Ghents. I have been told that the
Ghents (Viscosepalum, Narcissiflora, Pallas, Daviesi) have a critical period
of cutting time that is about 1 week. A good bet is to take cuttings a week
apart and take some notes.
You can follow Joel's directions but make sure your rooting medium and pots
are sterilized first as various stem and root rots are common problems. Peat
and perlite is a good combination. Bottom heat and mist can speed things up
if you have them available.
Don't bother to check the roots visually but after 1-2 months gently tug on
the stem to see if it has roots. Then fertilize and add 3-4 hrs of light to
the night to get the rooted cuttings to put on a new vegetative bud. By this
time the days are getting shorter and the rooted cutting will not put on any
growth. If they don't put on growth they will probably not make it through
the winter no matter how well rooted they are. I have learned by experience.
You can transplant after vegetative growth has started. The rooted cuttings
need to be protected through winter in a cold frame or heavy mulch.
Fred Galle's book "Azaleas" Timberpress can help to figure out what kind of
hybrid you have and is a excellent reference.
Good luck and good timing
Sally Perkins
Gardens in Salem, NH zone 5b-6a. Very, very slow spring.
>Reply to:
>From: Mark Scarinzi <E7P2SCA@TOE.TOWSON.EDU>
>To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
>Subject: Azalea, decid. propagation
>What is required to root deciduous azalea cuttings and when should they
>be taken?
>
>
>Dear Mark,
>
>Take cuttings from the new growth at the lower portion of the plant.
>Take 6-8 inch long.
>Wait until the cuttings have slightly hardened off, about 6-8 weeks after
>new growth initiation.
>Store in a poly bag in a refrigerator for a day or so...this will allow
>callous to form.
>Wound by making a small cut in the basal end.
>Apply a mild rooting dry powder hormone such as 0.3%IBA (for example
>Rhizopon AA #2 (0.3) available from V-J Growers Supply 800-327-5422).
>Use a media with some peat.
>Keep media moist.
>Plant in trays.
>Cover trays *completely* with clear plastic (such as a bag) to keep
>moisture in and create a microclimate.
>Keep in a light place ... not full sun.
>Rooting should occur in 3-6 weeks.
>
>By the way ... free samples of Rhizopon are available if you contact me direct
>hortus@worldnet.att.net
>
>regards,
>Joel
>
>
>
>**************************************************************
>
>
>
>
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