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seeds-digest-request@eskimo.com wrote:
> 
> Subject:
> 
> seeds-digest Digest                             Volume 97 : Issue 140
> 
> Today's Topics:
>          Re: Glaucidium palmatum question
>          Re: Collecting Hosta Seeds??
>          Re: Collecting Hosta Seeds??
>          List owner comments
>          Hostas
>          Re: Collecting Hosta Seeds??
>          Re: Hostas
>          More on Propagating Under Flourescents
>          Re: More on Propagating Under Flourescents
>          Luffa cylindrica
>          Re: Luffa cylindrica
>          Re: More on Propagating Under Flourescents/Fertilizer
>          Re: More on Propagating Under Flourescents/Fertilizer
>          Re: Hostas
>          Re: More on Propagating Under Flourescents/Fertilizer
>          Re: More on Propagating Under Flourescents/Fertilizer
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: Glaucidium palmatum question
> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 12:33:29 -0400 (EDT)
> From: skid@bway.net
> To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> >I have seeds of Glaucidium palmatum.  I can't find much out
> >from my sources except "sow immediately".  I assume I should leave
> >them out. Does anyone have any other advice?  I normally just
> >try something, but in this case I am particularly interested in
> >having some success.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Frank Simpson Z5 Southern NH 1100'
> 
> What we understand about Glaucidium palmatum seed is that they need  a GA3
> soak in order to break dormancy and germinate.  We have not tried it
> ourselves, but got the info from Bob Stewart at Arrowhead Alpines.
> 
> Bill & Harvey
> SKID Plants   Zone 6   CT   USA
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: Collecting Hosta Seeds??
> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 12:57:17 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Bruce Mitchell <mitchellb@cyberus.ca>
> To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> A friend has a wonderful *fragrant* hosta that has yet to set seeds, but
> we're keeping our fingers crossed.  Has anyone had experience/luck with
> fragrant hostas coming true from seed?  The plant is quite ordinary, the
> flowers white, and the fragrance heavenly!
> 
> Does anyone know of fragrant hostas in general?  ie varieties and sources?
> 
> Bruce
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: Collecting Hosta Seeds??
> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 12:00:28 -0500
> From: Bob Axmear <bobaxe@sbt.net>
> To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> Bruce Mitchell wrote:
> >
> > A friend has a wonderful *fragrant* hosta that has yet to set seeds, but
> > we're keeping our fingers crossed.  Has anyone had experience/luck with
> > fragrant hostas coming true from seed?  The plant is quite ordinary, the
> > flowers white, and the fragrance heavenly!
> >
> > Does anyone know of fragrant hostas in general?  ie varieties and sources?
> >
> > Bruce
> Hi Bruce        All hostas that are fragrant have hosta plantaginea (species)
> in their genetics. It is possibly misspelled.
> Bob
> --
>                       @           319 568-4859             @
>                       |------------------------------------|
>                       | Robert J Axmear  bobaxe@sbtek.net  |
>                       | Waukon, Iowa 52172-1308            |
>                       | Zone 4  colder than #$@^%$   >;->  |
>                       |------------------------------------|
>                       @                                    @
>                     "The police are not here to create disorder.
>                       The police are here to preserve disorder"
>                              Mayor Richard Daley - 1968
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: List owner comments
> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 10:13:07 -0700
> From: Duncan McAlpine <mcalpin@eskimo.com>
> To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> As the mean list owner, I have to somehow provide the correct wording
> without offending anyone.
> 
> If the posting is private and not related to propagation, please submit
> you response to the original author of the posting.
> 
> All I am trying to do is reduce the gossip and chatter which is non
> propagated related.
> --
> Duncan McAlpine, Federal Way, WA   m*@eskimo.com
> Why buy plants when you can grow them yourself.....?
> http://www.eskimo.com/~mcalpin/
> http://www.eskimo.com/~mcalpin/pumkin.html
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Hostas
> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 14:02:26 -0700
> From: Kareena Holloway <JsWife@2xtreme.net>
> To: "'seeds-list@eskimo.com'" <seeds-list@eskimo.com>
> 
> Just a side note about hostas.  I recently read that when you plant bulbs,
> you can also plant hostas in between them so when the bulb foilage begins
> to go, you still have the beautiful foilage of the hostas for camophlage!
> (I'm sure I spelled that wrong!)
> 
> Kareena
> Khollow@2xtreme.net
> 
>                       Name: WINMAIL.DAT
>    Part 1.6.1.2       Type: unspecified type
>                             (application/octet-stream)
>                   Encoding: x-uuencode
> 
> Subject: Re: Collecting Hosta Seeds??
> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 20:18:12 -0500
> From: Jane Gillespie <janeg@mindspring.com>
> To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> At 12:57 PM 10/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >A friend has a wonderful *fragrant* hosta that has yet to set seeds, but
> >we're keeping our fingers crossed.  Has anyone had experience/luck with
> >fragrant hostas coming true from seed?  The plant is quite ordinary, the
> >flowers white, and the fragrance heavenly!
> >
> >Does anyone know of fragrant hostas in general?  ie varieties and sources?
> >
> >Bruce
> >
> I sure would be interested in getting some of those plants/seeds!!
> 
> Jane Gillespie
> janeg@mindspring.com
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: Hostas
> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 18:21:54 +0000
> From: Jill Zimmerman <jillz@itex1.com>
> To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> Great idea.  Another thing you can do is plant forget-me-nots.  I grew
> some pink ones from seeds this year and they were lovely.  Does anyone
> have any other ideas of what to plant along with bulbs for camouflage?
> 
> Jill Zimmerman
> 
> 
> Kareena Holloway wrote:
> 
> > Just a side note about hostas.  I recently read that when you plant
> > bulbs,
> > you can also plant hostas in between them so when the bulb foilage
> > begins
> > to go, you still have the beautiful foilage of the hostas for
> > camophlage!
> > (I'm sure I spelled that wrong!)
> >
> > Kareena
> > Khollow@2xtreme.net
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: More on Propagating Under Flourescents
> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 22:15:51 -0700
> From: Heather Navarra <hanavar@ibm.net>
> To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> Thanks to everyone for their responses to my questions regarding
> propagating seeds under lights.  My two targets for next spring are to
> produce sturdier perennials, and annuals that will flower as quickly as
> possible.  The consensus seems to be a warm florescent + a cool one
> should give equal results to a greenhouse, especially since my northern
> exposure would reduce the hours and intensity of sunlight in the
> winter/spring.
> 
> >From your feedback arises other questions.  Diana Politika mentioned the
> value of using either high-pressure sodium or halogen lights instead of
> florescents, which can be hung 6 feet above the leaf surface.  Bill &
> Harvey mentioned vapour lights, which produce more lumens without the
> heat.  But no one mentioned adding an incandescent fixture to the
> florescent setup, which I have heard can be beneficial.  Could an
> incandescent or a halogen light be added, and would there be an
> improvement in bloom time in annuals?
> 
> Tom Clothier provided a very informative and detailed list of other
> factors that may affect success with seedlings, such as timing of
> potting on, using deep pots, brushing seedlings to promote sturdy
> growth, ensuring air movement, etc.  All of these are good tips to
> consider.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but I assume that none of these
> would affect bloom time in annuals?  If this is incorrect, please
> explain.
> 
> Of course, into this big equation goes soil mix and temperature
> control.  I think I have these two licked, as well as keeping the
> seedlings within 2" of the lights. Another great idea came from Joanne -
> to use mirrors and/or white reflecting boards to maximize the light.
> 
> The other question that arises comes from consistent feedback that
> florescents should be adequate *for seedlings*.  When does a plant cease
> to be a seedling and become a "plantling"?  I would think that many
> plants are beyond what I would call a seedling by the time they are
> ready to go outside.  I am thinking specifically of annuals that are
> intended to start flowering by the time they go outside.  They are
> usually substantial plants, not seedlings, by the last frost date.  Can
> I expect these "plantlings" also to do well under florescents?
> 
> Bill & Harvey indicated that whether annuals flower sooner has less to
> do with the spectrum of light than *when* the plants are started.  I
> typically plant the seeds according to the directions on the pack.  Is
> there a benefit to starting even sooner than the pack recommends, or
> will I have overgrown "plantlings" by planting out time?
> 
> So, gang, sorry for the long post, but I've given you some additional
> questions to peruse!  What are your thoughts?
> 
> Heather in Markham, Ontario, Canada
> Cda Zone 6 / USDA Zone 5
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: More on Propagating Under Flourescents
> Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 01:58:15 -0400
> From: Butch Ragland <wilddog@venus.net>
> To: hanavar@ibm.net, seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> While your gathering this general lighting information, some specific
> information about the effects of light and day length as it relates to
> specific plants. The garden mum is an easy one: to bloom it must have a
> certain number of dark hours. Starting some plants early may not enhance
> any part of its growing or blooming habits.
> 
> At 10:15 PM 10/10/97 -0700, Heather Navarra wrote:
> >Thanks to everyone for their responses to my questions regarding
> >propagating seeds under lights.  My two targets for next spring are to
> >produce sturdier perennials, and annuals that will flower as quickly as
> >possible.  The consensus seems to be a warm florescent + a cool one
> >should give equal results to a greenhouse, especially since my northern
> >exposure would reduce the hours and intensity of sunlight in the
> >winter/spring.
> >
> >>From your feedback arises other questions.  Diana Politika mentioned the
> >value of using either high-pressure sodium or halogen lights instead of
> >florescents, which can be hung 6 feet above the leaf surface.  Bill &
> >Harvey mentioned vapour lights, which produce more lumens without the
> >heat.  But no one mentioned adding an incandescent fixture to the
> >florescent setup, which I have heard can be beneficial.  Could an
> >incandescent or a halogen light be added, and would there be an
> >improvement in bloom time in annuals?
> >
> >Tom Clothier provided a very informative and detailed list of other
> >factors that may affect success with seedlings, such as timing of
> >potting on, using deep pots, brushing seedlings to promote sturdy
> >growth, ensuring air movement, etc.  All of these are good tips to
> >consider.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but I assume that none of these
> >would affect bloom time in annuals?  If this is incorrect, please
> >explain.
> >
> >Of course, into this big equation goes soil mix and temperature
> >control.  I think I have these two licked, as well as keeping the
> >seedlings within 2" of the lights. Another great idea came from Joanne -
> >to use mirrors and/or white reflecting boards to maximize the light.
> >
> >The other question that arises comes from consistent feedback that
> >florescents should be adequate *for seedlings*.  When does a plant cease
> >to be a seedling and become a "plantling"?  I would think that many
> >plants are beyond what I would call a seedling by the time they are
> >ready to go outside.  I am thinking specifically of annuals that are
> >intended to start flowering by the time they go outside.  They are
> >usually substantial plants, not seedlings, by the last frost date.  Can
> >I expect these "plantlings" also to do well under florescents?
> >
> >Bill & Harvey indicated that whether annuals flower sooner has less to
> >do with the spectrum of light than *when* the plants are started.  I
> >typically plant the seeds according to the directions on the pack.  Is
> >there a benefit to starting even sooner than the pack recommends, or
> >will I have overgrown "plantlings" by planting out time?
> >
> >So, gang, sorry for the long post, but I've given you some additional
> >questions to peruse!  What are your thoughts?
> >
> >Heather in Markham, Ontario, Canada
> >Cda Zone 6 / USDA Zone 5
> >
> >
> 
> "Conflict is as addictive as nicotine, alcohol, drugs, etc.
> I'm sorry to report that cooperation is not."
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Luffa cylindrica
> Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 16:03:27 -0700
> From: Sven Jönsson <sven.joensson@hoor.mail.telia.com>
> To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> Hi everybody!
> I've got several big fruits of Luffa Cyl. I've been told that the inside
> can be used as a sponge. The fruits are between 10 and 30 inches long, 5
> inches diameter. When shall I harvest? Drying time? Need hints.
> Thanks
> Sven from Sweden
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: Luffa cylindrica
> Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 11:50:44 +0100
> From: ANGELO CLARIZIA <clarizi@ibm.net>
> To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> Sven Jönsson wrote:
> >
> > Hi everybody!
> > I've got several big fruits of Luffa Cyl. I've been told that the inside
> > can be used as a sponge. The fruits are between 10 and 30 inches long, 5
> > inches diameter. When shall I harvest? Drying time? Need hints.
> > Thanks
> > Sven from Sweden
> 
> Sven,
> Wait'il the luffa starts to yellow (the exact point is light yellow).
> Never let it dry in the plant because it will get almost black inside.
> After you harvest it then you can peel them easily. After peeling you
> beat them against a border with the largest diameter portion down (it is
> from this side that the seeds will be spitted off). Save the seeds if
> you want (only the black and intact ones). Thereafter you have two
> alternatives: (1) do not wash the sponge and let it to dry in the shadow
> (not washing will spare the substance attached to the sponge and that
> will do good for the skin during the first uses); (2) wash the sponge
> and remove the substance-very light green-attached to it and let it to
> dry in the same way as in '2'. In the alternative '1' the sponge will be
> light brown after dried (as you use it it will become almost white), and
> in the alternative '2' the sponge will be almost white.
> Besides bathing with the sponge you can use it also as dishcloth. By the
> way one of the names it is known is 'dishcloth goard'.
> To finish: when you harvest the goards when they are light yellow the
> sponge will result very soft. If you let them dry on the plant the
> sponge will resemble sandpaper.
> Good luck!
> 
> Angelo
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: More on Propagating Under Flourescents/Fertilizer
> Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 17:35:02 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Donna Maroni <dmaroni@email.unc.edu>
> To: Heather Navarra <hanavar@ibm.net>
> CC: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> >
> > Tom Clothier provided a very informative and detailed list of other
> > factors that may affect success with seedlings, such as timing of
> > potting on, using deep pots, brushing seedlings to promote sturdy
> > growth, ensuring air movement, etc.
> 
> I take it that Tom mentioned fertilization.  When I first started raising
> things from seed, I just assumed 'soil' had everything the seedling
> needed.  Not true, darn it!  Especially with some of the so-called
> soilless mixes, fertilizer is essential.  In fact, when I fertilize, I
> sometimes see a seedling make a growth spurt overnight.
> 
> Now my question:  I have a brass siphon device that is intended for use
> with 16X concentrated liquid fertilizer.  Do any of you use these things.
> I have had great success with Peter's fertilizer, but the siphon soon
> clogs. I've been faithful about running clear water though the hose &
> siphon after each use, but it still clogs.  Is this avoidable?
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: More on Propagating Under Flourescents/Fertilizer
> Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 05:37:30 -0700
> From: "Diana L. Politika" <diana@olympus.net>
> To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> Donna Maroni wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Tom Clothier provided a very informative and detailed list of other
> > > factors that may affect success with seedlings, such as timing of
> > > potting on, using deep pots, brushing seedlings to promote sturdy
> > > growth, ensuring air movement, etc.
> >
> > I take it that Tom mentioned fertilization.  When I first started raising
> > things from seed, I just assumed 'soil' had everything the seedling
> > needed.  Not true, darn it!  Especially with some of the so-called
> > soilless mixes, fertilizer is essential.  In fact, when I fertilize, I
> > sometimes see a seedling make a growth spurt overnight.
> >
> > Now my question:  I have a brass siphon device that is intended for use
> > with 16X concentrated liquid fertilizer.  Do any of you use these things.
> > I have had great success with Peter's fertilizer, but the siphon soon
> > clogs. I've been faithful about running clear water though the hose &
> > siphon after each use, but it still clogs.  Is this avoidable?
> 
> Nah, somethings wrong there.  It shouldn't clog.  In fact, if you are
> dissolving your fertilizer, I bet it isn't clogging.
> It only works when you have an open hose.  You can't hook it up to a
> nozzle that restricts the water flow at all.  Not even a lawn sprinkler
> will work with it.  A fogging nozzle is out of the question, and most
> any adjustable nozzle is, too.  You have to use a big rose, which will
> break the water up, but still not knock everything down, or compact the
> soil.
> 
> And, in your mentioning the fertilizer bit.....be aware that many
> Peters  mixes DO NOT contain microelements in ENOUGH dose to assist the
> plant.  If you are going to grow in peat based mixes, ask for the
> formula 'Peat-Lite'.  Or you can mix Kelp Meal (I use a quart in 7 cu ft
> of soil, but you really cannot overdose because it's organic) into the
> soil mix when you pot up.  Or you can order MicroMax.  That is what I'm
> going to use on my next order.  It's less expensive than Kelp Meal.
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: Hostas
> Date: 11 Oct 97 20:48:02 -0700
> From: "Bob Carter" <bcarter@awinc.com>
> To: "Jill Zimmerman" <seeds-list@eskimo.com>
> 
> Jill <jillz@itex1.com> wrote:
> 
> > Great idea.  Another thing you can do is plant forget-me-nots.  I grew
> > some pink ones from seeds this year and they were lovely.  Does anyone
> > have any other ideas of what to plant along with bulbs for camouflage?
> 
> > Jill Zimmerman
> >
> 
> > Kareena Holloway wrote:
> 
> >> Just a side note about hostas.  I recently read that when you plant
> >> bulbs, you can also plant hostas in between them so when the bulb foilage
> >> begins to go, you still have the beautiful foilage of the hostas for
> >> camophlage!
> >> (I'm sure I spelled that wrong!)
> >>
> >> Kareena
> >> Khollow@2xtreme.net
> 
> Yellow cushion spurge, Euphorbia polychroma, has worked well for me with very
> early bloomers like eranthis and crocus.  It starts quite small about the crown
> in early spring but has a nice spread by late spring.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> --
>  Bob Carter  -  bcarter@awinc.com
>  Kootenay Bay, BC, Canada  -  Zone 6b
> --
> 
> After all is said and done, usually more is said than done.
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: More on Propagating Under Flourescents/Fertilizer
> Date: 11 Oct 97 21:01:27 -0700
> From: "Bob Carter" <bcarter@awinc.com>
> To: "Donna Maroni" <seeds-list@eskimo.com>
> 
> Donna <dmaroni@email.unc.edu> wrote:
> 
> > Now my question:  I have a brass siphon device that is intended for use
> > with 16X concentrated liquid fertilizer.  Do any of you use these things.
> > I have had great success with Peter's fertilizer, but the siphon soon
> > clogs. I've been faithful about running clear water though the hose &
> > siphon after each use, but it still clogs.  Is this avoidable?
> 
> Yes, I use them.  I'm surprised you have trouble using Peter's, it is quite
> soluble and should go through the siphon easily.  I regularly use mine to
> siphon fish and seaweed concentrate and haven't had any clogging problems at
> all.  It is a particulate suspension, and even when I make up 5 gallon pails of
> concentrate for large feedings and it all gets through it okay.  Perhaps what
> you're experiencing is a slowing of the siphoning action because the back
> pressure between the hose end and the siphon itself is too great.  The
> manufacturer recommends using a short length of hose, 25' or less after the
> siphon and not to restrict the flow at all.  If I'm using a water wand I'll
> remove the water breaker at the end to have minimal resistance to the flow.  It
> works fine for me used this way.  If you want to have a slower flow then you
> need to put a small inline shutoff valve just before the siphon, so as not to
> create back pressure on the outflow side.  Hope this is clear ...
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> --
>  Bob Carter  -  bcarter@awinc.com
>  Kootenay Bay, BC, Canada  -  Zone 6b
> --
> 
> ...ywercs lla og tsuj sgniht semitemoS
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: More on Propagating Under Flourescents/Fertilizer
> Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 13:04:35 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Ccopuntia@aol.com
> To: seeds-list@eskimo.com
> 
> Diana Politika wrote on 10/12/97:
> 
> >Or you can order MicroMax.  That is what I'm
> >going to use on my next order.  It's less expensive than Kelp Meal.
> 
> Diana, I was wondering if MicroMax is available in small quantities for the
> home-grower vs. large ones for the nursery trade?  If so, could you possibly
> share with us a source or two for where we might buy this, mail order
> perhaps?
> 
> Thanks in advance!  C. Carter, CA/Z9
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