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Lavender propagation



Dominique Schaller wrote:

> At 02,33 2.09.97 -0700, you wrote:
> > I have always propagated lavender by the vegetative method which is
> >very easy and you get exact duplicates of the parent plant.  Plants
> >grown from seed are very variable in growth habit, according to the
> >experts.  The vegetative method results are close to 100%.  This has
> >been my own experience
> I would be very happy if you could summarize which vegetative method
> you use
> to propagate lavender.
> Thank you in advance
> Dominique Schaller
> Department of Biochemistry
> University of Geneva
> Science II
> 30 quai Ernest Ansermet
> CH-1211 Geneva 4
> SWITZERLAND
>
> TEL ++41 22 702 6465
> FAX ++41 22 329 6102
>
> Dominique.Schaller@biochem.unige.ch

HOW TO PROPAGATE LAVENDER AND OTHER PERENNIALS FROM STEM CUTTINGS

Here is briefly my experience.  I don't have a greenhouse or a cold
frame. I started my career in propagation with easy plants like
impatiens, mums, and lavender by taking cuttings from those plants.  If
the weather is too cold, I keep them on a windowsill where they get
plenty of light.  Otherwise they stay outdoors in semi shade.  Within
weeks I have between 50 and 100 new plants for my flower beds.
Throughout the year I have more than 25-30 pots of various annuals and
perennials being propagated from cuttings.  That allows me to get a good
start in spring and all summer long till September.

Here is the propagation method. First, I save all small round food
containers from the supermarket (cheese, yogurt, and cream) and also the
plastic vegetable bags.  One can also use 4-6 inch plastic pots and
gallon size zip-lock bags instead of the free containers and veggie
bags.  In the containers I put Supersoil or another brand of sterilized
soil and keep everything clean to avoid molds and other microorganisms.
The cuttings are about 5-6 inches long with about four rows of leaves.
The bottom of the cutting starts just below a node.  I strip all the
leaves below the surface or touching the surface of the soil and insert
the cuttings about 2 inches in the soil to bury about 2 nodes.  I leave
at least two sets of leaves on the cutting.  I put 1, 2 or 3 cuttings in
each container, depending on the size of the plant.  For example, in my
4 inch containers I put 2 cuttings of lavender, 3 impatiens, or 2 mums.

The soil has to be wet but not soggy.  Then I cover the container with a
plastic bag, inflate it with my breath, put a rubber band around it or
tuck the plastic bag under the bottom of the container, and place it in
shade outdoors.  This way the plant has its own little greenhouse
surrounding and protecting it from harsh winds and dry air.  Four weeks
later, voila, there are lots of new rooted plants.  At that point in
time, I start to pull the bag away gradually.  In 2-3 days to a week the
bag is off.  Then I start to move the toward a sunnier spot if
ultimately the plant will get its permanent place in the sun according
to its own preferences.  That takes another 1-2 weeks.  During all this
time I keep a watchful eye to see any sign of distress.  If this is the
case, I put the bag back to give the newly rooted plants more time to
root themselves in the shade or to acclimate themselves with the regular
environment. Here it is best to play it by ear for each case to learn
the signs the plants give us.

So, in 5-6 weeks there are new plants that can be placed in their final
place in the garden.  Every year I propagate like this about 500 plants
both annuals and perennials.  As I said, originally I started with only
a few plants and I figured out this method mostly by myself.  The rate
of success, depending on the various varieties of plants is 60-100%.  I
never propagate plants in water or where full sun can get them.

I plan to make some sketches in the near future to show how the plants
are placed in the propagating containers.

Alex Teller
E-mail: alextell@pacbell.net

JPEG image

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