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Re: [PRIMROSES] tree roots

At 03:05 PM 12/31/97 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 97-12-31 01:18:41 EST, you write:
>
><< What I do remember is being told that even adding an inch
> > of soil over tree roots can be fatal.
>
As per the info I learned in Horticulture II ( study of woody trees) :
Roots need oxygen and will not grow in compacted oxygen-poor soil.   Fill
dirt changes the ratio of oxygen to carbon dioxide around tree roots and the
roots may die.  The framework of major roots usually lies less than 8 to 12
inches beow the surface.  Roots often grow outward to a diameter one to two
times the height of the tree.

Wood mulch is the best thing you can do for your trees.  This is what nature
does naturaly.  Flower beds can be built suscessfuly, if it is done with
nature in mind.

Mulch as previously mentioned, is kept away form the trunk of the tree.
Built up soil too!   This includes the bark covered surfaces of tree knees
or buttress that appear to be raised roots.  These above ground growthes
that appear root like,  are like the tree trunk in composition and should
not be submerged in soil or soggy mulch.

Mulch (or loose soil) of no more than 3 to 4* inches can be  sread to the
drip line** of a tree.

*Deep mulch will cause the tree roots to grow upward in to the cool, moist
mulch material, creating a shallow, vulnerable root system.   What special
care will this shallow root system demand?
**Mulch past the drip line will interfeer with the vunarable feeder roots
that  are most prevelant in the 3 feet just past the drip line.  These
sensative, productive roots grow 1 to 3 inches below the soil surface and a
small change in surface level can affect their ability to function.    How
long will it take the roots to adjust to a surface level change?   What is
the cost to the tree?   How much of a trees drip line roots can be covered
before it affects the tree?

Each tree is growing in a unique situation.  You must descide what is rignt
for each tree based on the enviorment of that tree.  As mentioned before,
the damage done to a tree by changing soil level can take years to show.

I have beds under all of my trees.  I have made mistakes and I will probely
make more.    The trees that have deep beds, 6 to 9 inches, or were built in
one season, require a lot of water in the summer because their roots did
turn up into the bed and became dependent on regular watering.  Even with
regular watering, they still drop many of their leaves in the heat of the
summer.  A full grown oak tree will transpire 200 gallons of water a day(as
per Arbor Day Society).

The beds that were built gradualy have been most sucessful and less
demanding of special care with littel stress on the trees.   Part of the
area (1/3) of the trees field, was covered with 1 to 2 inches of compost,
several layers of news paper, and toped with wood mulch.   News paper and
wood mulch is the most commen method,  I just happen to have compost handy.
No more than 4 inched total depth.  Each year more of the area can be
covered and another layer of mulch can be added to the area already covered.
By the end of the second year, the first area should have developed into a
good bed to plant in.   Remember that trees do not develope feeder roots
under concrect or black top and therefore when you calculate the root
surface that a tree has you can not include any surfaces that are paved.

Good luck with your beds.
 --<-<@    Be Well    @>->--
Dorie Rose the Hosta Lady
Larry Rose the Lighthouse Man
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