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Re: [PRIMROSES] Miracid watering

In a message dated 98-01-03 15:51:14 EST, Barbara wrote:

<< In New England we use Iron Chelate to get rid of chlorosis. >>

I have a good handout recommended at the local chapter of the MN Hort Soc. on
how to lower Soil pH. Here is just a portion of it where it discusses the
various materials to do it:

"The table on the back side of this sheet shows the number of pounds of
elemental sulfur or iron sulfate required per 100 square ft. to lower the soil
pH from its existing level to 6.5.  Elemental sulfur is available under
various product names, one of which is Dispersol.  However, it takes 3-4
months with elemental sulfur for the pH change to occur once added to the
soil.  Iron sulphate and aluminum sulphate will also lower the pH, but they
are 6 to 7 times less effective than elemental sulfur on a weight basis.
HOWEVER, ALUMINUM SULPHATE IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR LOWERING SOIL PH AS IT HAS
BEEN FOUND TO HAVE POTENTIALLY TOXIC EFFECTS SUCH AS RESTRICTING ROOT GROWTH
AT LOWER PH LEVELS.  If you want to lower the soil pH faster than with
elemental sulfur, iron sulphate would be the recommended choice as the
reaction time for the pH change is usually 2-3 weeks."

I notice that this paper uses 2 different spellings for iron
sulfate(sulphate).  I don't know which is correct, nor do I know what these
materials are.  Can someone enlighten me?  I have a small "northwoods" garden
where I am trying to grow some of the native wildflowers found in Minnesota's
northern forests where the soil is more acidic than in the Twincities' area
where I am.  I use coffee grounds, pine needles that I collect (until my White
Pines are big enough to produce enough) and Miracid.  I bought some Iron
Sulfate a few years ago but have never gotten up the courage to use it.  I'm
never comfortable trying to figure out the proper amount of any chemical to
use on my gardens so I usually just don't.

Cindy Johnson
White Bear Lake, MN
zone 4a
cidjohnson@aol.com
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