Re: Leaf Mold
- To: s*@MAELSTROM.STJOHNS.EDU
- Subject: Re: [SG] Leaf Mold
- From: G* O*
- Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 07:39:39 -0500
One caution: More is not better in this case. Too much nitrogen plus too
much water equals anaerobic decomposition. You don't want that. So if you
are new at this, I'd avoid adding 10-10-10 and stick with an organic source
of nitrogen. Dehydrated manure will work just fine for the nitrogen source.
The shredded leaves are already rich with fungi and bacteria - inoculation
not absolutely necessary but won't hurt, either.
The most important thing you can do to keep the pile cooking is turn it
every month or so and keep it moist. If you are in a cold part of the
country, covering the pile with a tarp will help hold the heat in and
prevent leaching of nurteients as the pile decomposes. Oak leaves decompose
more slowly than other species like maple (primo stuff!) but you still
should get usuable compost by spring.
Gerry
At 06:17 AM 11/9/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Would dehydrated manure also hasten the process?
>Nancy Stedman
>
>>Dr david Edwards
>>wrote.......................................................................
>>......
>>> convert to leaf mold on its own, but is there a way to hasten the process?
>>
>>
>>Yes there is.
>>
>>Mix up the mass of shredded leaves with some manure, (3-5%) which will act
>>as an inoculator, water or wet it and leave it to compost rapidly. If
>>desired an extra shot of fertilizer, 1% of the wet mass, of 10-10-10 will
>>kick it up a notch.
>>The whole pile may be turned over once per month and by spring be anywhere
>>between 10-20% of its original volume. At that time it may be applied as top
>>dressing to lawns, soil conditioner to your garden or veggie patch.
>>
>>Good luck,
>>George Mannoe.
>>
>>
>
>
