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RE: Blossom end rot
- To: <v*@eskimo.com>
- Subject: RE: Blossom end rot
- From: "* G* <r*@centrelab.com>
- Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 16:39:59 -0400
- Resent-Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 13:41:24 -0700
- Resent-From: veggie-list@eskimo.com
- Resent-Message-ID: <"D7_9_.0.Hi4.pbyqp"@mx1>
- Resent-Sender: veggie-list-request@eskimo.com
It's blossom end rot (BER) time, again. You know, when the end of the
tomato (and pepper) turns black and sinks in?
I thought that this year that I would prevent BER it by incorporating epsom
salts (magnesium sulfate) into the soil at planting, and by making sure
that the soil in the tomato and pepper bed had a good amount of calcium in
the form of dolomitic lime. I tend to think of BER as (largely) a divalent
cation deficiency, and something that expresses itself mostly under drought
stress.
And drought stress is what we are currently going through in sunny central
PA, at least until TS Danny comes up the coast and dumps on us. My lawn
crunches when I walk across it to water the garden. (And yes, I will
finally put in a drip irrigation system in the garden for next season).
My first question to the group is: what varieties do you know to be
BER-tolerant? I am growing Celebrity, Burpee's Supersteak, Sweet Chelsea,
First Lady, and the BER responses by variety from my garden will be posted
later this week. Celebrity shows the worst BER response so far.
The second question is: does anyone have experience in preventing BER? I
now always amend my tomato bed with epsom salts and dolomite. I started
this when I began to have BER problems in the first year in a new garden
spot or bed, and it seemed to help in subsequent years. In 1997, however,
I had to try new tomato varieties (I am ashamed to admit that I had to buy
tomato seedlings from a local greenhouse rather than growing my own), and
put them (again) in a new bed.
And then it quit raining.
I do water nightly (and deeply) when I am not traveling. But when I go out
of town for a week at a time ...
Any advice?
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