Re: Glads
- Subject: Re: Glads
- From: D* W*
- Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 09:20:30 -0400
- Resent-Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 06:31:52 -0700
- Resent-From: v*@eskimo.com
- Resent-Message-ID: <"c6hSE2.0.7I1.7js9x"@mx1>
- Resent-Sender: v*@eskimo.com
Rena,
Better late than never for a response on this one....
What about using small bamboo stakes and soft ties to try and train them in the right
direction? If you dig them up I think you will disturb their growth.
rena falcone wrote:
> Rainfall has caused my glads to grow up looking like a ballet school on the first
> day! The are growing in all directions but, UP. Is is advisable to dig them up
> and straighten the out? They are very strong and appear happy and they are in a
> place that is not in the way so, if I allow them to continue their current
> choreography it may look strange, but, won't bring down the neighborhood.
>
> Patrick Callahan wrote:
>
> > On Saturday 09 June 2001 09:48, Andrea Green wrote:
> > > We just moved into our new home, and there are some tomato plants that need
> > > to be transplanted. How do we go about doing that? Andrea
> >
> > Short answer: With a shovel! ;-)
> >
> > I think its probably still early enough to move tomato plants from one part
> > of the garden to another if that's what you meant. I'd use a shovel to
> > first dig an 8-10 inch diameter hole where the plant is going. and then dig
> > a root ball about 8 -10 inches in diameter around the plant. Using the
> > shovel, pick the whole plant up by the root ball and put it where you want
> > it.
> >
> > Be careful to handle by the plants by the root ball not the green plant stalk
> > or you'll risk damaging the plants.
> >
> > I grow my tomato plants a bit close together, leaving a bit more than 1
> > square foot per plant. I don't know if this is right or not. Anyone know
> > for sure?
> >
> > If you have some seedlings to transplant, here's what I do:
> >
> > When I put tomato plants in from seedlings, I use a product called planting
> > mix. Its a mix of peat moss, loam and cow manure. Great stuff! I Dig a
> > hole about 8 inches deep, and 10 inches in diameter. Fill it in with this
> > stuff. Adding enough to go bit above the level of the old soil in a rim
> > around the 10 inch diameter circle. I put a handful of soil in the center of
> > the crater to form a small mound. This is what you want the soil to look
> > like when you're done. Its a bit like a small moon crater.
> >
> > I plant the seedlings so the top of the soil from the transplant root ball is
> > 1/2 inch below the original soil level. I mound up a little soil around the
> > stalk about 1/2 inch above the level of the original soil so the soil looks
> > like the moon crater again. I expect this little bump in the middle and the
> > 1/2 inch below grade level will accept new roots the tomato plant will put
> > out as it grows and that this will make the plant healthier. The rims
> > around the outside of my craters will hold water. I can water with a
> > watering can and the water won't run off to nourish the weeds.
> >
> > Many Thanks to Mr. Liu from Taiwan who showed me this crater technique this
> > spring.
> >
> > What do the experts on the list think of these techniques for transplanting?
> > Will Andrea run into any problems if she's moving plants as I suggested?
> >
> > -Pat
--
Debby Williams
Author of Fruit and Urban Kitchen Gardening e-zines at:
http://wz.com/homegarden/GardensPlants.html
Regional Advisor at http://www.thevegetablepatch.com/
Oakland County, Michigan USA;USDA Hardiness Zones 5b/6a