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Re: Stan's hot tomato
- To: v*@eskimo.com
- Subject: Re: Stan's hot tomato
- From: s*@juno.com (Ross E Stanford)
- Date: Mon, 2 Mar 1998 08:45:28 -0600
- Resent-Date: Mon, 2 Mar 1998 07:50:36 -0800 (PST)
- Resent-From: veggie-list@eskimo.com
- Resent-Message-ID: <"KwvT-2.0.Ig3.8Lj-q"@mx2>
- Resent-Sender: veggie-list-request@eskimo.com
OK, so here's what I did, as opposed to what I said I was going to do.
(It is really neat to find the practicality of an Idea as opposed to the
pure theory).
I decided on making the pyramid using three triangular pieces of 1/2
inch thick, silver foil covered styrofoam insulation board. The base of
these triangles is 12 inches and the height is 16 inches. These
dimensions will allow maximum usage of a full 4X8 sheet of the insulation
board. (That is, if it works!). These dimensions are not carved in
stone. I cut out 3 of the triangles, laid them foil side up on the
table, pushed their edges together and used silver duct tape to attach
them to each other. The duct tape works real good to the foil surfaces.
I then stood up the 3 sided pyramid with the 4th side open. I then took
a scrap piece of the insulation board, cut it to 5 inches tall by 12
inches long and placed it as the bottom front of the open side of the
pyramid. I attached it to the pyramid using duct tape also from the
inside. At this point, it is a very wobbly but strong contraption. I
then trimmed the 5 inch piece to match the slanted edges of the other 2
sides.
Now I had a 4 sided pyramid with a large "window" on one side. I
took a half empty tube of cheap house caulk and sealed all the edges from
the outside. I also ran a small bead of the caulk around the "window"
opening. I then took a piece of plastic food cling wrap (Saran Wrap) and
covered the "window" with it. The wet caulk sealed it in place.
This operation is no where near as complicated or time consuming as
it sounds. I just like to be as thorough as possible so that anyone with
a better idea will know what I have done.
I stuck it out in the garden last night, just before dark, with 2
Christmas tree lights inside laying on the dry dirt and I put in a cheap
thermometer, that I could see through the window. The thermometer read
50 degrees F. at this point. I pushed loose dirt up against the base
about 3 inches deep to keep the pyramid from blowing away and to kind of
seal the bottom with the ground.
Well, now for the results.
The overnight low temp last night was around 15 degrees F. last
night. We usually get our coldest temperature just before dawn. I went
out to check on the temperature of the pyramid when it was just getting
light out, but before the sun came out. There was moisture on the inside
of the plastic wrap. I tapped off some of the water beads so that I
could see through the window. The temperature on the thermometer, laying
on top of the dirt, real 45 degrees F. ALL RIGHT! I think I'm on the
right track here. The outside temperature was definitely no more than 20
degrees F. (By the way, does anyone know how to make a "degree" sign on
the computer, you know, the little zero that should go after the number.
I don't see one on my keyboard.)
OK, so how do I improve on this?
First I think that 1/2 inch insulation board is not giving me much
"R" value. I have some 1inch, non-foil faced styrofoam insulation board
that I think I will glue to the outside of the existing pyramid. This
may not be cost effective in the future. If this new thickness of
insulation helps out a lot I may resort to using some other thicker type
of cheap insulation board and make an aluminum foil "lining" on the
inside of the pyramid.
I know that I must be losing a lot of heat through the window.
Since the plastic wrap does not lay flat, ( it kind of wrinkles because
of the temperature changes) I am going to try about 3 layers of some
other type of clear plastic. (some type that will not cling to itself)
The wrinkles should make kind of air pockets between the layers something
like the air pocket in double pane windows.
I want to use only one light bulb per pyramid also. There is a
certain cost trade off there.
I am a little concerned about the size of the window. I will
monitor the sun today to see how much sun is getting in throughout the
day.
I would also like some input about the best size for the pyramid. I
would like to put seeds in the ground, in the floor of the pyramid, 8
weeks before the last average frost, which here is May 6. I don't want
to have the tomato plants outgrow the pyramid before I am ready to remove
it.
Help.
1. What size should the pyramid be? I don't want the plant to outgrow
the pyramid too soon.
2. When should I remove it? I don't want to remove it and replace it
daily to harden off the plants. I just want to remove it and not have
the plants die. I SAID I WAS LAZY.
3. What variety of tomato should I use for test purposes?
4. Why did the chicken cross the road?
Thanks for any help
Stan. The cheap and lazy gardener.
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