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Re: Root Pruning to move trees

Mary R. Henry wrote:
> 
> Vicki Morin Gallagher wrote:
> >
> > Dear Diana:
> >       Isn't there a formula for the size of the rootball based upon the
> > circumference of the tree?
> >     How deep should the rootball be?
> >     Also if the rootball grows in a sandy type soil is all lost if the
> > rootball breaks when you lift the tree?
> >     There's a Bonfire Sugar Maple that needs a new home.
> > Best, Vicki
> 
> I'm not Diana, so please pardon my jumping in.
> There is a document called the American Standard for Nursery Stock. I
> have a copy at work. It details the specifications you are talking
> about. And yes, if the root ball breaks up you will probably lose the
> tree. Trees greater than  3/4" in diameter are very hard to move
> successfully ESPECIALLY if they have not been root pruned to produce
> feeder roots in the ball area. When they have grown to that size without
> such pruning all the feeder roots will be outside it. If you want the
> specs let me know and I'll bring it home when I work next (Wed.) so I
> can give you the right ones.
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for answering this for me.
I'd like to add one thing.
I purchased a weeping katsura from a wholesaler last summer.  It was
B&B, and the entire rootball came apart to the point of nothing left. 
Feeder roots were not present. It obviously has been recently dug up,
(and improperly so,) and sold much to soon.  I removed all the leaves,
potted it in a large container and placed it in total shade.  By taking
the leaves off, you remove the need for water uptake as transpiration is
severely reduced.  I know that I haven't rounded the bend officially,
but it put out new leaves by fall and is recovering nicely.  So don't
assume that because the rootball breaks up that the plant is lost.
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