D. Christopher Rogers
Senior Invertebrate Ecologist/
P.O. Box 4098
Davis, CA 95616
∙ CALIFORNIA ∙ MISSOURI ∙ PENNSYLVANIA ∙ ONTARIO
email@example.com [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org] On
Behalf Of Paul Temple
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2009 1:03 AM
Subject: [Aroid-l] How to build a water wall
By request, this is what I did. It is not the only way
to build a water wall but it is the way I used and it's not complicated.
I started with a wall made of concrete blocks, held together by a standard
cement mixture and reinforced with vertical iron bars. I covered the
blocks on one side (the side that faces the viewer) with an impermeable layer,
a cement mix with a chemical added to prevent water escaping through the
blocks. (NO point menaming the chemical as it will differ from country to
country.) On the floor, I created a shallow pool using more of the
impermeable cement mix. On the sides that didn't alreday include the
concrete blocks, I created a low wall using one row of concrete blocks and,
again, I sealed the inside face with the impermeable cement mix. At this
point, I had an ugly wall standing in a shallow pool surrounded by a low
wall. This is the point at which one has to fill the pool with water to
be absolutely sure none leaks out. Mine did leak, via holes created
to house waterproof lights to shine on the water wall. We added copious
amounts of imermeable cement mx until the leaks stopped.
On top of the large concrete block wall, we placed a 4" diameter plastic
tube in which we had already drilled holes. The dimension of the holes
depends on the pressure of water you supply to the pipe, so experimentation is
needed to get the effect you want. In my case, the water supply to the
tube was direct from my own river, va more tube. For those who don't have
a river, one can use a pump that recirculates water from the pool. If
doing this, it makes sense to create a deeper part of the pool to accommodate
the pipe that sucks water out to the pump. If using a river as the
supply, the pool needs an oulet and somewhere for the water to go to!
We used just one pipe but with less than very high pressure, this means that
the holes at the beginning of the tube allow lots of water to escape while
holes further down the tube lose less water, so the far end of the wall is
dryer. An alternative is to put two pipes in, one covering the first half
of the wall and the other above the second half. This creates a slightly
more even watering effect, if that's what you want.
Next we covered all the concrete blocks and the pipe using rocks glued together
with small amounts of cement (it's not necessary that it's necesary that it's
impermeable). We did this such that almost no cement could be seen.
In my case, the rocks were fresh from my land and they were of a porous type so
able to stay wet for a period of time. This will help plants attach and
Next, we installed waterproof lights in the low wall surrounding the pool, and
then coverd these with rocks (stuck on with cement).
We then switched on the supply from the river. If using a pump, one would
need to fill the pool and then switch on the pump.
Then we modified the effect. Where the pressure was high enough to cause
water to jet out vertically or horizontally, we added mre rocks to deflect the
water back at the wall.
Finally we are adding plants by pushing their roots into crevices between the
My water wall is about 5 feet high and is about 25 feet long (we measured it
today), though it has additional dry sections at both ends. There
is no real limit to how high or wide the water wall can be if made in this way.
The floor of the pool can be covered (for example, with pebbles) or it can be
painted. For now, I've done neither.
After just 3 days of being wet, the rocks were green and ferns began to sprout
found in this incoming message.
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