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Re: Rot Prevention

  • Subject: Re: Rot Prevention
  • From: "Julius Boos" <ju-bo@email.msn.com>
  • Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 15:15:34 -0600 (CST)

----- Original Message -----
From: <magrysbo@shu.edu>
To: Multiple recipients of list AROID-L <aroid-l@mobot.org>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: Rot Prevention

I wonder why one would 'treat' a rare and valuable plant tuber with an
experimental at best dip into a potentially damaging and experimental
solution when there are tested and proven cures such as 'BANROT' CAPTAN and
MANY others available that are SPECIFICALLY developed for these rot
I sure would not try it on any of my tubers that were and ARE becoming MUCH
more difficult if not impossible to obtain and even ship!


>>I dunno Bill. I gently scrubbed problem Arisaema tubers with it and let
them air dry. Cleans off all schmutz and I believe that any litter critters
onboard were jumping for their lives.
Bonaventure Magrys

                    pring.com>           To:     Multiple recipients of list
AROID-L <aroid-l@mobot.org>
                    Sent by:             cc:
                    aroid-l@mobot.       Subject:     Re: Rot Prevention

                    10:37 AM
                    Please respond
                    to aroid-l

I know I am going to get smacked for this, but.... regardless, why would
this be "better" than using one of the MANY fungicide products on the
market? Cost?

As far as I know, Hydrogen peroxide has great "disenfectant properties" but
I dont know if you would find it to be a broad spectrum fungicide.

aroid-l@mobot.org wrote:
> At a recent orchid society meeting, the speaker mentioned that
he uses hydrogen peroxide (3%) to treat orchids that have experienced
a problem with rot. Basically, he waters the plant on its regular
schedule, but for three waterings he uses hydrogen peroxide. His
reasoning was that apparently plants (at least orchids) produce a
weak hydrogen peroxide solution at the interface between leaf and
stem when the plant is dropping a diseased leaf. His reasoning being
that if the plant produces it inside, it should have no problem with
it being applied on the outside.

Long story, short question. Does anybody have any idea if this procedure
might help combat rot in dormant potted amorphophallus tubers?

Bill Weaver

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