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Re: How to Handle Berries of Pearl Anthurium

  • To: Multiple recipients of list AROID-L <aroid-l@mobot.org>
  • Subject: Re: How to Handle Berries of Pearl Anthurium
  • From: George Yao <gcyao@netasia.net>
  • Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 11:37:04 -0600 (CST)

Hi Robert and everyone,

It's my turn to be sorry for the delay. I had just finished wrapping up a
garden show and had to catch up on so many things that it's only now that I
can catch up on my email.

Thanks to all those who responded to my request for help: Dr. Tom Croat,
Harry Graham, Michael Pascall, Tsuh Yang Chen, Julius Boos, and, of course,
Robert Arias.

Since I did not have much time to do things right, I just sprinkled the
cleaned seeds on a piece of moist tissue paper placed inside a transluscent
plastic lunch box. They germinated within the week. I didn't count, but it
looks like almost 100% germinated. Now they are about 1/2" high. I'm
wondering when I should transplant them and/or feed them.

I took a couple of digital photos but I don't know where to put them up for
this list. If anyone can tell me how, I will be glad to show the pictures.

George Yao <gcyao@netasia.net>
Metro-Manila, Philippines

At 09:57 AM 01/20/2000 -0600, you wrote:
>	Sorry for taking so long to get your message, I've been away.
>	I've grown "Pearl Anthurium", Anthurium scandens, from seed many
>times with great success. But let me warn you up front, the plants grow
>fairly slow and may take as many as three to four years before you will
>see the formation of berries on your seedlings.
>	First, the seeds of this plant will stay viable for weeks if not
>removed from the fruit. I have planted seeds that were removed from the
>parent for at least two weeks, with almost 100% viability.
>	The sticky "jelly" need not be removed from the seeds, it seems
>that it is neither an asset nor a hinderance to germination.
>	The seeds will germinate quickly (less then 4 weeks).
>	I like to use a cell tray that holds many little cells in one
>pack. I also like to use Fafard #2 soil (a commercial soil that is very
>light weight yet retains a high moisture level once wet) as my medium for
>anthuriums. Don't forget to water the soil before and after planting.
>	The seeds of most anthuriums, in the wild, just grow where they
>fall, on the surface of some substrate. Hence the idea of sowing the
>seeds on the surface of the soil. But I have found that if you plant the
>seeds on the surface of the soil they will develop what reminds one of
>prop-roots. This works out well for anthuriums in the wild where leaf
>litter is constantly falling. But I have found, through experimentation,
>that if the seeds are covered with about an 8th of an inch of soil the
>roots will not push the entire plant into the air. The roots will grow
>downward and develop a strong system. So plant them a little below the
>surface, they will do better. 
>	For A. scandens, I like to plant 5 or so seeds together. The
>plants, when planted together, seem to ward off fungi that a single
>seedling seems not to be able to defend against. The only down side to
>planting seeds together in small cells is that they run out of nutriment
>very quickly. So once the majority of the seeds have sprouted you should
>start to fertilize right away. After the seed are planted, the tray is
>covered and the  waiting begins.
>	Once the seeds are up, write again and I'll try to help you along
>the way.
>	Good Luck!
>Robert Arias
>Tampa, FL

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