I can understand your problem, becouse one year I lost all of
But I also would like to correct you. Erwinia carotovora is in
all natural soils which were not disinfected by heat.
This bacteria attacks the tubers when the soil is soggy and
anaerob (= without air). The second thing is what I saw is this bacteris usally
attacks the tissues at the top of the tuber, where the leafs attach. And for the
leaves it is going upward.
I also contacted with a dutch Zantedeschia breeder, who told
me that Z. aethiopica is resistant to this kind of rot, because it grows in
marshes. So you may try these varieties, becous you may have better luck. I was
able to rot hese tubers too, but before rotting they became infected with a
fungus, perhaps Pythium. This fungus loves wet conditions, the sympthomes are
smelly rot and melting as Erwinia, but you can kill this with strobilurines as
azoxistrobin (Amistar, Quadris).
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 4:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Help - Serious
spreading Amorph disease
I lost my entire crop of konjacs to this about
ago. It affected the konjacs while other Amorphs
next to them had no problems!
I've also lost a significant amount of
soft rot/Erwinia 2 years ago. The plants looked
fine, until suddenly they toppled over at the base.
looked like they melted. I've also seen
it affect cut flowers- the
plant looked fine, the
flower was picked and put into water in a
next day the petiole would have literally dissolved
the way up to the spathe, which would look OK for
a little while and then
it too would start to "melt".
My soft rot/Erwinia, which, by the way, I
is two different diseases but work together; seemed
from your plant's symptoms.
First, the rot would progress up the
petiole or down
to the tuber. I could pull the bloom and leaves
out of the ground with no effort. Second, it has a
awful, rotten, stinky smell. The tubers would
also be affected, with
large sections rotting off.
Erwinia is a bacterial disease (if I
correctly), it is very contagious and can be carried
from one site to another. Phyton 20, a copper
based formula, is said
to prevent it, but bulbs must
be sprayed before planting. I believe
if it affects
an area you are not supposed to use that soil
because it is infected.
I did rescue a few of my tubers that
weren't too badly
affected, I used a water hose to vigorously spray
until all the mush washed away. Then I dried the
the sun/ air as much as possible. Some of
them were viable the next
year, I only had about 3
plants with it last year as opposed to maybe a
the year before.
Truly a heartbreaking disease. I wish
you luck with
it. Since your tubers seem to be OK, you may
some other disease or pest going on....
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