Re: Titanum leaf cuttings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Subject: Re: Titanum leaf cuttings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- From: "brian williams" <email@example.com>
- Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 22:38:59 -0500 (CDT)
My questions (if you know the answers... )
What do you mean by "the mid rim"?
I believe he said each piece had about 3 leaf divisions or what look like
three leafs. The mid rim would be more of the center of the leaf that is
more stem looking rather than leaf.
Do you know what sorts of hormones?
He said any root forming hormones would most likely work. If it is a powder
remember to use your finger to make a whole rather than pushing the cut
piece in. You can scrape a lot of the hormone off this way.
What temperature was this done at?
Well, he does live in Hawaii. I am saying that is was probably hot and humid
like most cuttings would like it. Probably in the 75F to 85F range.
How long did the rooting process take/did the leaves rot/die back during
I will have to ask him on this question.
How big were the cuttings that worked (overall size, petiole diameter?)
(petiole is a word I just learned today--the leaflet's equivalent of a
He said it seemed the larger the cutting the better off they did. He tried a
lot of very small cuttings with less luck. It seemed he used a cutting about
as big as a pencil maybe a tad bit smaller.
Were the 50 plants all from the same leaf? If so what fraction of the leaf
was used? All the cuttings were from two plants I believe. He used the top
section of the Amorphophallus the part that looks like multiple leafs on
top. He took cuttings off of the branched out parts. I am thinking this may
slow down intake for the main bulb in the long run and cause slower growth?
Not sure on that but just a thought?
At what stage of growth was the leaf chopped up? (easier to persuade someone
to do this if the leaf is already dying...)
Well, I do not recommend waiting till the leaf is dyeing I also do think
when the leaf first shoots out to start chopping. Wait till the leaf has
harden up a bit. I would believe your chances to be greater then of
producing starts. I will ask him more on this as soon as I get sometime to
I should also add to use the soil mix I had talked about before. On these
and other bulbous aroids. I know many friends in Florida have used a lot of
different mixes but the 1/2 Scotts metro mix 360 with 1 perlite and powdered
spaghnum moss mix. I have had great success with this. Used with partial
shade and temperatures in the 65 to 85 range Amorphophallus will grow like
Any other question do ask. THANKS
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