RE: [Aroid-l] Anthurium

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Dear Tom,

 

Thank you for the advice. Anthurium is a new interest of mine, as I typically have been focused on the tuber bearing aroids (Amorphophallus, Dracontium, Anchomanes, Cryptocorne, Arum, Typhonium, etc.) But, I am pleased that my Anthurium harrisi has just pushed out its first flower.

 

I am trying to keep the light levels the same as what the parent plant has. The parent is in a whitewashed greenhouse under a canopy of tree ferns, orchids and Monstera. The leaves on the parent are nearly black with silvery white veins. The two ‘babies’ came from the base of the main stem, where there was very little light penetration, and these leaves are very pale green. So, I am a little concerned about them being burned. I have them under my son’s orchid bench, in a high humidity (80%) environment, with the orchids that need low light conditions. So, as our winter sets in, temperatures in my greenhouse run from 12 degrees C at night to 26 degrees C during the day. I am installing a propane heater that will keep the temperatures a bit higher. Any further comments or suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Christopher

 

D. Christopher Rogers

Invertebrate Ecologist/Taxonomist

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-----Original Message-----
From: aroid-l-bounces@gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@gizmoworks.com]On Behalf Of Tom Croat
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 11:12 AM
To: Discussion of aroids
Subject: RE: [Spam] RE: [Aroid-l] Amorphophallus and Anthurium

 

Dear Christopher:

 

            It is probably not the extent of darkness that is important but the temperature and the degree of humidity.  If you bring it up too high in the greenhouse the light would be better but it could be too hot. Obviously plants respond favorbly to light, not darkness but the temperature control must be monitored because if you have nice humidity with too much light you will develop too much heat. Alternatively conditions too dark might not work either. Clearly regrowing sick or weak plants is a slow process some times.

 

Tom