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Re: OT: ultrasonic rodent repellers

  • Subject: Re: OT: ultrasonic rodent repellers
  • From: Ken Mosher <ken@spatulacity.com>
  • Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 02:30:30 -0400

Hi Michael,

Thanks for your answer. It was thorough, not too long.  I have a bit of 
experience mouse-proofing and I'm well aware of the very small openings 
they can squeeze through.  I was extremely thorough with sealing up the 
openings during the renovation. I used many methods:  1/4" hardware 
cloth, installing new wood, blocking with new wood, "Great Stuff" foam 
in combo with the other solutions. We also made it so that even if the 
mice access one area of the ceiling they can't get past the rafters to 
other sections.  There used to be unused wiring holes for them to crawl 
through.

The worry is, of course, did I miss an opening? Will they find a 
weakness where they can easily chew a new one?  My desire was/is to use 
the electronic repellers to drive them away before they've had time to 
explore their options!

It don't mind baits and traps. Dead mice don't bother me; it's the live 
ones that bother me!  In fact, I've found that gluing the all-weather 
baits to a piece of wood is the best idea, otherwise they will tend to 
drag them away to where the baits may be less effective and I can't 
monitor their consumption.

I'll keep the two repellers (inside the headhouse and in the little shed 
behind it) in place.  I may not even know if they're effective or not 
unless damage becomes evident by spring or summer. But I have a "control 
group" that's easier to monitor. There's a second shed, about 10' x 12' 
whose indoor eaves were home to gray and/or red squirrels last winter. I 
put another repeller in there along with weatherproof baits.  I can 
monitor those baits and I will see if the rodentia build their winter 
nests in the eaves again.  Last winter during a heavy feeding week the 
varmints would consume three baits in two or three days.

I guess I'm lucky to have electricity in all of my outbuildings.  As the 
season progresses I'll let the group know the results.  Since I bought 
the repellers are Lowe's I guess I have 90 days to return them if they 
don't work. I'll know by then if they're effective in the shed.

-Ken

michael kolaczewski wrote:
> Greetings Ken, and other forum members,
> In addition to gardening and propagating plants for many years, I was 
> at one time
> involved in structural pest control. These devices really do not 
> provide any pest 
> deterrence. Mice, as many of you know, are  problem pests in 
> greenhouses, homes, and other
> structures. If you can slide a #2 pencil under a gap or a door, or 
> even under a baseboard, they can get in.
> In the matter of mouse biology, in particular, the house mouse, the 
> males also contaminate 
> many things with their urine, by their marking activity. The urine 
> also contains pheromones, 
> Which they use to attract females and to deter rivals, from entering 
> their territory.  
> So obviously, once a number of individuals begin to enter into a 
> structure, and take up residence,
> you can have quite an infestation.
> You can use a rodent bait or glue boards, which some people find 
> unpleasant, as control
> methods. There are also the so called, catch all traps, metal devices 
> which capture the mice.
> If there are only a few rodents, the traditional little snap trap 
> works well. Once again I realize some people
> will find this unpleasant. 
> These items should used along the perimeter of the walls and where 
> they will not be contacted by children and pets.
>  Another step, is to secure all cracks, crevices, and gaps around the 
> structure. Using Silicone
> chalk will help a great deal. You can also use steel wool in the gaps. 
> If use the wool and the chalk together,
> be sure that you have a "smooth" seal. Don't let the wool protrude out 
> of the chalk. 
> In some cases, using a strip of metal over a gap or door bottom, or 
> even around structure base /
> foundation, will provide another level of deterrence.
> I have lost various bulbs, and many, many flats of seedlings and 
> plants to pests. 
> I do whatever is needed to get rid of them.
> Sorry for the long posting, I hope this information will be of use to 
> you all.
> Best regards, 
> Michael Kolaczewski
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