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Re: community_garden digest, Vol 1 #419 - 1 msg

Dear Sharon,

I am a beginning biointensive gardener in Madison WI.  I play the
coordinator role in a community garden on the UW-Madison campus.  Our
gardens is hosting John Jeavons for a 3-day workshop in May 2001.  I love
what you are doing integrating biointensive sustainable gardening with
Habitat for Humanity homeowners, and I would like to follow suit in Dane
County, Wisconsin.  Give me some leads. - Dave

At 12:00 PM 8/5/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Send community_garden mailing list submissions to
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>"Re: Contents of community_garden digest..."
>Today's Topics:
>  1. Local foods---growing 180+ pounds in a 4x6 foot space (Sharon Gordon)
>Message: 1
>To: community_garden@mallorn.com
>From: Sharon Gordon <gordonse@one.net>
>Date: 	Fri, 4 Aug 2000 21:43:05 -0400
>Subject: [cg] Local foods---growing 180+ pounds in a 4x6 foot space
>Here's a possible plan for the Florida Habitat for Humanity Houses that
>I described in the previous post.
>Here is a possible plan for your Florida 4x6 beds below. It's planned for 2 
>plantings of cool season crops and one planting of warm season crops.
>An excellent book for planning gardens like this is How to Grow More 
>Vegetables than you ever thought possible on less land than you can 
>imagine, 5th ed by John Jeavons. It will help you figure out a design and 
>planting schedule that will work well in your area. It's been my experience 
>that raised beds with good soil can usually achieve the medium levels of 
>yields the first year.
>Also, I would urge you to do as much edible landscaping as possible for the 
>yard in general. For this year you may wind up with smaller fruit trees, 
>and shrubs(fruit or herbal). What would be great is if you can find several 
>people who will grow trees now for the houses the group builds in 2004 and 
>beyond. Then you could have larger trees to go in the yards at less 
>expense. If you can get someone to do perennials for flower beds too, that 
>would add to the beauty of the houses. You may want to design several 
>different plans based on the cultural food preferences of your habitat 
>families. And also choose favorite varieties of plants. If you plant edible 
>flowers they can be used in salads, desserts, and rice dishes. If you plant 
>nonedible ones, avoid the super toxic ones or sweet pea flowers that might 
>be confused with garden peas.
>Cool season--plant this in the spring and the fall 
>1 planting yield total yield/year in pounds
>2 Cabbages 4 8
>4 Collards 8 16
>32 Carrots 16 32 (large yield carrots)
>2 Chard, Swiss 4 8
>2 Kale 4 8
>8 Lettuce, leaf 4 8
>8 Mustard 4.5 9
>18 Onions 4 8
>18 Peas, bush 1 2(more if edible pod)
>288 Radishes(72/month) 16 32
>8 Spinach 4.5 9
>4 Pansies(spring) - -(pansies edible, don't
>or Stocks(fall)           know about stocks)
>-------- -----------------------------------------
>  Total cool season yields 140 lbs plus flowers
>Warm season--plant this once in the summer 
>  24 Beans, green snap 6
>2 Cucumbers 6
>8 Lettuce, leaf 4 (See Cooks summer leaf mix)
>288 Radishes (72/month) 16
>4 Peppers 4
>1 Squash, zucchini 3(put at one end of bed)
>2 Tomatoes 4(put in 2x1 at end of bed)
>1-2 Nasturtium - (pretty flowers, tasty in salads)
>1 Herb square .5 (1 plant each of basil, parsley, oregano & dill) 
>Total warm season yield 43.5 lbs plus flowers
>Total for year = 183.5 pounds of vegetables plus flowers
>With careful timing there could be something to eat fresh everyday except 
>for the first month. Although if you could plan well it might be possible 
>to plant the gardens even before the house is done as long as the grading 
>is finished so that there will be a good garden by the time the house is 
>finished. The homeowners will need flats to keep a steady supply of 
>transplants coming along for when a plant or crop is finished and removed. 
>It would be helpful to include a hose, nozzle, ruler, trowel and copy of 
>Jeavons' book as well. The bottom end of an old toothbrush works well as a 
>Each pack of many of the seeds will provide enough seeds for 25 or so 
>houses. Exceptions for most packs would be beans and radishes. Jeavons' 
>book has info so you can figure out the seeds from the weight of the 
>package if the catalog doesn't tell the number of seeds per package. For 
>the homeowners who would like to save more money and have seeds better 
>adapted to their location, you could have a seed saving class and later a 
>seed swap. Please use heirloom/open-pollinated seeds to make this possible.
>  gordonse@one.net
>community_garden maillist  -  community_garden@mallorn.com
>End of community_garden Digest

community_garden maillist  -  community_garden@mallorn.com

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