hort.net Seasonal photo, (c) 2006 Christopher P. Lindsey, All Rights Reserved: do not copy
articles | gallery of plants | blog | tech blog | plant profiles | patents | mailing lists | top stories | links | shorturl service | tom clothier's archive0
Gallery of Plants
Tech Blog
Plant Profiles
Mailing Lists
    Search ALL lists
    Search help
    Subscription info
Top Stories
sHORTurl service
Tom Clothier's Archive
 Top Stories
New Trillium species discovered

Disease could hit Britain's trees hard

Ten of the best snowdrop cultivars

Plant protein database helps identify plant gene functions

Dendroclimatologists record history through trees

Potato beetle could be thwarted through gene manipulation

Hawaii expands coffee farm quarantine

Study explains flower petal loss

RSS story archive

Re: Community Garden

You ask a good question!  The answer I've come up with is
plenty of quality compost added to the soil each year. The
compost combats disease problems and renews nutrients depleted
by the plants.
    For tomatoes and peppers and other plants that I set out
into the garden I dig a hole, fill with lime (we have a pH of
4.3 in our clay) and compost.  It takes a good bit of time to
plant this way but the plants make up for it with the way they
   Compost tea will also battle disease and is priceless IMHO.

----- Original Message -----
From: kristina & bruce <kjwbdw@gateway.net>
To: <Dboek@aol.com>; <Rshtn1fn@bellsouth.net>;
Cc: <drushton@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: [cg] Community Garden

> Hi - Adam and Don have fine advice about rotation, but I've
often wondered
> how small plot community gardeners manage it.  My town's
community gardens
> have 20 X 20 ft plots for each individual and rotation is
simple.  How do
> you rotate, however, when people have much smaller plots,
where you your
> broccoli isn't very far from where you or a neighbor had
planted it the
> previous year?  It seems to me that when the individual plot
size becomes
> too small, gardens are better being more communal (never a
bad idea) and
> having everybody grow their brassicas, for example, in one
section of the
> garden, which can be rotated.  This is mostly a point of
curiousity, but I'm
> interested in the contrasts between community gardens of
individual plots
> and "communal gardens".  Bruce
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: Dboek@aol.com <Dboek@aol.com>
> To: Rshtn1fn@bellsouth.net <Rshtn1fn@bellsouth.net>;
> community_garden-admin@mallorn.com
> community_garden@mallorn.com <community_garden@mallorn.com>
> Cc: drushton@bellsouth.net <drushton@bellsouth.net>
> Date: Friday, February 18, 2000 2:32 PM
> Subject: Re: [cg] Community Garden
> >Hi, Birmingham,
> >As always, listen to Adam! I'd add that you might be
especially wise to
> >rotate where you grow your brassicas (like collards,
cabbage, broccoli...).
> >Here, we can grow them in the early spring and the fall, but
not in the
> >summer (like Birmingham, I reckon?). This makes a rotation a
little more
> >complicated, but still easy to manage. I leave at least two
years before
> >replanting brassicas in a bed (some recommend 4 years, but
my space is
> >limited). Try the cooperative extension there for veggie
> >(they are usually listed under county government). I use a
very simple
> >'quadrant system' personally, which works well enough. Aside
> brassicas,
> >I generally don't repeat the same crop in the same place for
two years in a
> >row, and leave it at that. I'm not superpicky about some
things (lettuce
> and
> >flowers I stick in everywhere as intercrops, I'll grow
legumes (peas,
> >blackeyes, crowders, beans) right and left). But rotation is
a good
> practice,
> >not just because of plant diseases but because different
crops use
> different
> >nutrients and thus you don't deplete your soil. Last
thought, I include a
> >soil building crop in my rotation one year in 4 or so,
either a cool
> weather
> >type (annual rye, crimson clover (beautiful)) or warm
(buckwheat). This
> >builds soil health.
> >
> >I work with home composting and school gardens both. About
kids and
> manures,
> >just be prudent but not paranoid. Washing hands is very very
important, as
> >Adam says. If manure has been composted properly using a
'hot' system, it
> >should be reasonably safe. I don't think I'd let young kids
(less than 11
> or
> >12, say-that's arbitrary) work closely with raw manures,
especially moist
> >ones, or with dusty manures (frequently the case with
poultry manures)
> >regardless of age. Be cautious, though-an outbreak of
Legionnaire's disease
> >in Australia recently was traced to a batch of poorly
> _commercial_
> >compost, and many of those infected were gardeners. Know
your supplier (or
> do
> >it right by doing the research and doing it yourself).
> >
> >Don Boekelheide
> >Charlotte NC USA
> >
> >In a message dated 2/18/00 1:16:17 PM,
Rshtn1fn@bellsouth.net wrote:
> >
> >>We have had a community garden for the past several years
in a public
> >>housing community in Birmingham, AL.   We have recently
read that rotating
> >>the planting of vegetables is very beneficial.  What are
your thoughts on
> >>this subject of rotating?  In particular, how many years
should you wait
> >>before it is necessary to change the location of planting
of the
> >>vegetables?
> >>
> >>What are your thoughts on the safety of kids handling
manure in working in
> >>the garden?
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >community_garden maillist  -  community_garden@mallorn.com
> >https://secure.mallorn.com/mailman/listinfo/community_garden
> >
> _______________________________________________
> community_garden maillist  -  community_garden@mallorn.com
> https://secure.mallorn.com/mailman/listinfo/community_garden

community_garden maillist  -  community_garden@mallorn.com

 © 1995-2017 Mallorn Computing, Inc.All Rights Reserved.
Our Privacy Statement
Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index