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Re: Fruit Tree Questions

  • Subject: Re: [cg] Fruit Tree Questions
  • From: "Sharon Gordon" <gordonse@one.net>
  • Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 16:13:33 -0400

I don't know how your garden is laid out, but if you put the trees on the
north end of your garden, they won't shade out the garden plots.  If you are
on a two sided hill, putting the fruit trees on the northside can keep them
from coming into bloom too early and getting frost bitten.  But it can also
mean that fruit gets less warmth unless they are planted against a south
facing wall.  Avoid placing them in low spots as cold air tends to form a
sink and you can frost things that don't get frosted even 10 feet up a
nearby hill.

One neat thing about apples or stone fruit trees is that you can graft 5 to
40 varieties on one tree.  On a young tree 2-3 years old, you could graft 5
different apple varieties and then add a few each year as it grows.  On a
stone fruit tree you could put wild plums, regular plums, cherries,
apricots, pluots, etc.  Using multiple varities helps with polination as
well as staggering the fruit harvest.
They do tend to look kind of amusing when they bloom and sort of look like a
decorated fruit christmas tree as the variety of fruit ripens though.

Save some money to buy large nets for your stone fruit trees when they

Another option you might give your gardeners especially as a perk for the
long term dedicated ones is that they can have plots in the north row of the
community garden plot and be allowed to grow fruit trees in their north
border row or their last 10 north feet(for example)  if the plots are large.

On the beehive possibility, if you have a building where you can only reach
the roof from inside, you can put hives on the roof.


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