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Re: Transplanting Trees - Part 2

  • Subject: Re: [cg] Transplanting Trees - Part 2
  • From: "Deborah Mills" <deborah@greencure.org>
  • Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 10:10:33 -0800

Title: Re: [cg] Transplanting Trees - Part 2
I must have missed the Part I of this but I agree with Lekoma's statement.
I apologize if this was already said, but in case it was not, the first thing I do is a perk test. I too live in a land where clay is in abundance. By doing a perk test you shall always know if drainage of the site was an issue or not if the tree fails. 
What a perk test is simply, is seeing how quickly the water drains. I take a stake that has been marked at one inch segments and pound it into the bottom of the hole and then I fill it with water. The bare minimum should be one inch per hour (I know many publications refer to that it should be drained over night but when you are working on a landscape, you don't have time to wait that long). Anything quicker than that is a good thing anything and anything over that you have to address the issue at hand.
You will be amazed that even in clay soils I have had the water drain as quickly as 2 inches per 15 minutes.
Hope this helps,
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: [cg] Transplanting Trees - Part 2

Try to use the existing soil as much as possible.  If its composed of heavy clay, then mix some organic amendments to the existing soil prior to backfilling it.  Replace the soil in layers while pouring water slowly around the rootball.  This procedure will settle the soil better while minimizing air pockets, plus providing better stability.

Adding amendments to the soil when backfilling can cause the tree roots to stay in that area.  They will tend to not grow out farther than the hole dug to plant it.  At best mix a little fertilizer in with the backfill and proceed as Jim explained.  This is what the recent research is saying.  Good luck,  Lekoma

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