Re: pruning cuts
- To: g*@hort.net
- Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning cuts
- From: "pdickson" p*@sbcglobal.net
- Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 12:58:07 -0600
- References: 000401c524e9$32eb79c0$0a01a8c0@rapking
too funny! wish she would join our little gardening group!
T
----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Apking" <red4@omni-tech.net>
To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 2:47 PM
Subject: RE: [CHAT] pruning cuts
Hi Jim,
Martha's sprung, you otta give her a jingle. I'm sure she's dying to help.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [o*@hort.net]On
Behalf Of james singer
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 1:48 PM
To: gardenchat@hort.net
Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning cuts
I use a bypass with an offset lever, which accomplishes the same thing
a ratchet does--creates extra leverage. This lopper is actually a
Martha Stewart special that I found at Kmart about 5 years ago. It's
all metal, which is the main reason I decided to try it. I had just
broken one of the wooden handles on a Corona. And it has been
excellent. I wish I knew who really made it; I'd look for more of their
tools.
On Tuesday, March 8, 2005, at 01:03 PM, Fort Wayne, IN wrote:
Ratchet can be easier for those of us with less upper body strength, carpal tunnel syndrome, etc. It makes the cut in increments, increasing torque or something like that. Not necessary, but nice. I think most gardeners prefer bypass to anvil. The anvil type can tend to mash the wood. Kitty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cathy Carpenter" <cathy.c@insightbb.com> To: <gardenchat@hort.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 9:55 AM Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning cutsMy loppers are bypass, but not ratchet. Are rachet loppers a better choice? Cathy On Tuesday, March 8, 2005, at 10:21 AM, Fort Wayne, IN wrote:Cathy, Are your loppers anvil or bypass? Ratchet? I use an old ratchet bypass lopper, never sharpened, that still seems to cut cleanly. Don't try to cut anything larger than it can handle. If there is a little bit of stripping left on the removed side, I clean it up with pruners. I haven't had that happen on the attached side. Sometimes I cheat and do use my loppers on something larger than I should. In that case, I cut only so far, then flip the loppers over, or move myself to a different angle. I position the loppers in the same grooves made from the previous cut, but now the blade is in a new area. I may only reposition once, sometimes 2 or 3 times. I know - I should go get the saw, but I'm kind of lazy that way. But I do seem to still get a clean cut. Kitty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cathy Carpenter" <cathy.c@insightbb.com> To: <gardenchat@hort.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 8:56 AM Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning cutsI have a problem with loppers - they never seem to cut cleanly for me (even when brand new), so end up with the same tearing of the lower edge of the cut that would happen if I attempted to saw through without making three cuts. Any helpful hints? Cathy, west central IL, z5b On Monday, March 7, 2005, at 03:47 PM, james singer wrote:-------------------------------------------------------------------- -Me too. Except it depends on the diameter of the limb. If I can get my loppers around it, I usually make it in one cut. If it's a job for the bow saw or the pole saw, then it's a series of cuts. On Monday, March 7, 2005, at 11:03 AM, Fort Wayne, IN wrote:Island JimIf I'm cutting a long limb, I cut it off about a foot out from where the cut should be made to get rid of the weight. Then I go in and make the actual 3 required cuts. Kitty -----Original Message----- From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [o*@hort.net]On Behalf Of pdickson Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 7:46 AM To: gardenchat@hort.net Subject: [CHAT] pruning cuts I see so many people that don't make the cut at the right place on the collar. He talked a lot about how that long piece will have to rot down and when it gets going that sometimes it doesn't stop at the collar... just keeps on rotting until it kills the tree. Another big point is to ALWAYS make several cuts to complete one cut. Start with a little cut from underneath... so that when you cut from the top the weight won't drop the limb and pull a strip off the tree from underneath. Lots of good information that I am remembering in spurts! Tricia ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kitty" <kmrsy@comcast.net> To: <gardenchat@hort.net> Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 9:23 PM Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning question------------------------------------------------------------------ --one thing mentioned in the pruning talk here was that narrow crotches collect more debris. More material sits in the crotch and rots. Kitty neIN, Z5 ----- Original Message ----- From: "pdickson" <pdickson@sbcglobal.net> To: <gardenchat@hort.net> Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 9:23 PM Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning questionDonna, One tip that has stuck with me from a pruning talk is to hold up yourhand,then bend down the little finger and the ring finger. Now the 3 fingers left are your tool to know which is the strong and the weak crotch angle. The thumb and the first finger represent a good strong angle. The pointer finger and the middle finger represent a weak angle. He gave lots of reasons why that is so... like the first one has more room for cells...butreally all I retained is which one is a good angle and which one youshouldtry to prune out. I hope that made sense! Tricia ----- Original Message ----- From: "Donna" <gossiper@sbcglobal.net> To: <gardenchat@hort.net> Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 7:37 PM Subject: RE: [CHAT] pruning questionWell grab your favorite pruning shears and come on down :) LOL! If you think that tree needs pruning, you should see another one! I am seriously thinking of digging it out and trashing it since it is a very small tree. A storm last year about took it out. It lost so manybranches----------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------------ --I should have put it out of it's misery then. Donna--------------------------------------------------------------- --Pruning is one of my favorite garden chores. Ceres
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Southwest Florida
27.0 N, 82.4 W
Hardiness Zone 10
Heat Zone 10
Minimum 30 F [-1 C]
Maximum 100 F [38 C]
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--------------------------------------------------------------------- To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the message text UNSUBSCRIBE GARDENCHAT--------------------------------------------------------------------- To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the message text UNSUBSCRIBE GARDENCHAT--------------------------------------------------------------------- To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the message text UNSUBSCRIBE GARDENCHATIsland Jim Southwest Florida 27.0 N, 82.4 W Hardiness Zone 10 Heat Zone 10 Minimum 30 F [-1 C] Maximum 100 F [38 C] --------------------------------------------------------------------- To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the message text UNSUBSCRIBE GARDENCHAT --------------------------------------------------------------------- To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the message text UNSUBSCRIBE GARDENCHAT
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