Re: pruning cuts
- To: g*@hort.net
- Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning cuts
- From: james singer j*@igc.org
- Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 14:13:18 -0500
- In-reply-to: 000401c524e9$32eb79c0$0a01a8c0@rapking
Hi, Rich. Yeah, I'm sure. Strange thing is, she's probably got more public support now than she had when she was merely that compulsive homemaker person.
On Wednesday, March 9, 2005, at 03:47 PM, Richard Apking wrote:
Hi Jim,
Martha's sprung, you otta give her a jingle. I'm sure she's dying to help.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [o*@hort.net]On
Behalf Of james singer
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 1:48 PM
To: gardenchat@hort.net
Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning cuts
I use a bypass with an offset lever, which accomplishes the same thing
a ratchet does--creates extra leverage. This lopper is actually a
Martha Stewart special that I found at Kmart about 5 years ago. It's
all metal, which is the main reason I decided to try it. I had just
broken one of the wooden handles on a Corona. And it has been
excellent. I wish I knew who really made it; I'd look for more of their
tools.
On Tuesday, March 8, 2005, at 01:03 PM, Fort Wayne, IN wrote:
Ratchet can be easier for those of us with less upper body strength, carpal tunnel syndrome, etc. It makes the cut in increments, increasing torque or something like that. Not necessary, but nice. I think most gardeners prefer bypass to anvil. The anvil type can tend to mash the wood. Kitty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cathy Carpenter" <cathy.c@insightbb.com> To: <gardenchat@hort.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 9:55 AM Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning cutsMy loppers are bypass, but not ratchet. Are rachet loppers a better choice? Cathy On Tuesday, March 8, 2005, at 10:21 AM, Fort Wayne, IN wrote:Cathy,
Are your loppers anvil or bypass? Ratchet?
I use an old ratchet bypass lopper, never sharpened, that still seems
to cut
cleanly. Don't try to cut anything larger than it can handle. If
there is a
little bit of stripping left on the removed side, I clean it up with
pruners. I haven't had that happen on the attached side.
Sometimes I cheat and do use my loppers on something larger than I
should.
In that case, I cut only so far, then flip the loppers over, or move
myself
to a different angle. I position the loppers in the same grooves made
from
the previous cut, but now the blade is in a new area. I may only
reposition
once, sometimes 2 or 3 times. I know - I should go get the saw, but
I'm
kind of lazy that way. But I do seem to still get a clean cut.
Kitty
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cathy Carpenter" <cathy.c@insightbb.com>
To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning cuts
-------------------------------------------------------------------- -I have a problem with loppers - they never seem to cut cleanly for me (even when brand new), so end up with the same tearing of the lower edge of the cut that would happen if I attempted to saw through without making three cuts. Any helpful hints? Cathy, west central IL, z5b On Monday, March 7, 2005, at 03:47 PM, james singer wrote:------------------------------------------------------------------- -Me too. Except it depends on the diameter of the limb. If I can get my loppers around it, I usually make it in one cut. If it's a job for the bow saw or the pole saw, then it's a series of cuts. On Monday, March 7, 2005, at 11:03 AM, Fort Wayne, IN wrote:If I'm cutting a long limb, I cut it off about a foot out fromIsland Jim
where
the cut
should be made to get rid of the weight. Then I go in and make
the
actual 3
required cuts.
Kitty
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net
[o*@hort.net]On
Behalf Of pdickson
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 7:46 AM
To: gardenchat@hort.net
Subject: [CHAT] pruning cuts
I see so many people that don't make the cut at the right place on
the
collar. He talked a lot about how that long piece will have to
rot
down and
when it gets going that sometimes it doesn't stop at the collar...
just
keeps on rotting until it kills the tree.
Another big point is to ALWAYS make several cuts to complete one
cut.
Start
with a little cut from underneath... so that when you cut from the
top the
weight won't drop the limb and pull a strip off the tree from
underneath.
Lots of good information that I am remembering in spurts!
Tricia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kitty" <kmrsy@comcast.net>
To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning question
----------------------------------------------------------------- -one thing mentioned in the pruning talk here was that narrow crotches collect more debris. More material sits in the crotch and rots. Kitty neIN, Z5 ----- Original Message ----- From: "pdickson" <pdickson@sbcglobal.net> To: <gardenchat@hort.net> Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 9:23 PM Subject: Re: [CHAT] pruning questionDonna,
One tip that has stuck with me from a pruning talk is to hold up
your
hand,then bend down the little finger and the ring finger. Now the 3
fingers
left are your tool to know which is the strong and the weak
crotch
angle.
The thumb and the first finger represent a good strong angle.
The
pointer
finger and the middle finger represent a weak angle. He gave
lots
of
reasons why that is so... like the first one has more room for
cells...
butreally all I retained is which one is a good angle and which one
you
shouldtry to prune out. I hope that made sense! Tricia ----- Original Message ----- From: "Donna" <gossiper@sbcglobal.net> To: <gardenchat@hort.net> Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 7:37 PM Subject: RE: [CHAT] pruning questionWell grab your favorite pruning shears and come on down :) LOL! If you think that tree needs pruning, you should see another one! I am seriously thinking of digging it out and trashing it since it is a very small tree. A storm last year about took it out. It lost so manybranches---------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------- -I should have put it out of it's misery then. Donna-------------------------------------------------------------- -Pruning is one of my favorite garden chores. Ceres
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Southwest Florida
27.0 N, 82.4 W
Hardiness Zone 10
Heat Zone 10
Minimum 30 F [-1 C]
Maximum 100 F [38 C]
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--------------------------------------------------------------------- To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the message text UNSUBSCRIBE GARDENCHAT--------------------------------------------------------------------- To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the message text UNSUBSCRIBE GARDENCHATIsland Jim Southwest Florida 27.0 N, 82.4 W Hardiness Zone 10 Heat Zone 10 Minimum 30 F [-1 C] Maximum 100 F [38 C] --------------------------------------------------------------------- To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the message text UNSUBSCRIBE GARDENCHAT --------------------------------------------------------------------- To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the message text UNSUBSCRIBE GARDENCHAT
Island Jim Southwest Florida 27.0 N, 82.4 W Hardiness Zone 10 Heat Zone 10 Minimum 30 F [-1 C] Maximum 100 F [38 C] --------------------------------------------------------------------- To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the message text UNSUBSCRIBE GARDENCHAT
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