Re: Help (needed in Greece)

Sean and Martin,

I also find valuable an older book, Mediterranean Plants and Gardens by Le
Vicomte de Noailles and Roy lancaster. Published by Calverton, Nottingham:
Floraprint Ltd, 1977 (also a French edition by Editions Floraisse).  It
contains pictures and descriptions of many suitable vines, with additional
lists.

John MacGregor
jonivy@earthlink.net


----------
>From: "Sean A. O'Hara" <sean.ohara@groupmail.com>
>To: Martin Jones <JeswynJones@compuserve.com>
>Subject: Re: Help (needed in Greece)
>Date: Tue, Jun 13, 2000, 4:35 PM
>

> At 11:11 AM 6/11/00 -0400, Martin Jones wrote:
>  >>Small village garden in Southern Greece (36oN, 11oE) which was already
> established when I took it over.  The major problem is coping with almost
> too many plants in a restricted space.  The situation is ideal  west facing
> at 230 meters altitude, 2km from sea with morning sun not reaching the
> garden until 10.00am. In general the major tasks are keeping everything
> within bounds once the summer growing season starts.<<
>
> Martin -
>
> In responding to your message, I am also cc'ing to the Medit-Plants e-mail
> forum.  I would suggest that you subscribe to this forum also to see first
> hand any responses that the group may have to your questions.  I will ask
> that they cc you directly, but they may not always comply.  Information
> about how to subscribe to the group can be found at:
> http://www.support.net/Medit-Plants/discuss/main.html
> There is also information there about how to access the archives of the
> group, which you can do without subscribing, but only subscribers can send
> messages directly to the discussion (to prevent 'Spamming').
>  >>One key element of garden is a very vigorous lemon tree.  It fruits very
> well but has too many in-growing branches,  when is best season to prune,
> how severely and how to avoid infection of open wounds ?<<
>
> Citrus trees can be pruned almost any time, but the best is when they are
> actively growing.  In this way they recover most quickly and remain
> healthy.  General pruning techniques would apply - keeping the plant open
> for good air circulation, head back overly long and spindly branches, cut
> out those that cross others, pinch some for bushiness, etc.  Citrus bear
> best on the lower branches.  Also, bark that is suddenly exposed to hot sun
> can burn, and mey benefit from an application of water based paint (flat
> house paint the same color as the bark (tan) works well).  Large cuts
> should be trimmed enough so as not to promote rot, but not so close as to
> hurt adjacent bark.  Cuts should be made at such an angle as to shed water
> very easily, to prevent rot.  In mediterranean climates, it has been found
> that leaving cuts open to dry and heal naturally is the best route - wound
> patching often allows pathogens to 'hide' from view underneath and cause
> significant damage which is discovered too late to remedy.
>  >>Pruning of vines, the other key feature is the vine, or rather the 3
> vines, providing essential shade for terrace.  Can anyone recommend a
> reliable book on pergola vines in true Mediterranean climate.  I have the
> RHS Wisley handbook but this is dealing with more temperate conditions and
> is only of limited help. Obviously the best books may be in French,
> Italian, (OK), less so if in Spanish or Greek!<<
>
> Hugo Latymer's book, The Mediterranean Gardener, a good overall reference
> for the average gardener, has a good section on vines, lists the most
> commonly found in this climate, and detailing their traits, both good and
> bad.  There is a locally produced book on vines, by the Western
> Horticultural Society, which I've been wanting to review, but I have yet to
> find out how to obtain it (it is not sold in bookstores apparently.  if
> anyone in the forum has information about this, please let me know).
>  >>Spraying the grapes against mildew so far has been restriced to benomyl,
> Is there anything better or more environmentally acceptable?  Bordeaux
> mixture is less acceptable (more messy) as one must clear away all terrace
> furniture before spraying.
> Many thanks for any comments, Martin Jones.<<
>
> I understand that it is the European races of grapes that have mildew
> problems, American races being immune.  Sulfur dust is usually suggested
> here, an application when the shoots are about 6in (15cm) and then every
> two weeks.  The cause of your mildew might be overhead watering from a lawn
> or adjacent garden, poor air circulation, or too much shade (full blazing
> sun rarely sees mildew when the foliage is kept dry).  Correcting these
> problems (if possible) might help prevent mildew without the dusting or
> spraying.
>
> I hope this has been helpful to you.  Let me know if you have more questions.
>
> Sean A. O'Hara                       sean.ohara@groupmail.com
> h o r t u l u s   a p t u s          710 Jean Street
> 'a garden suited to its purpose'     Oakland, CA 94610-1459, U.S.A.
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> Ask me about the worldwide Mediterranean gardening discussion group
>
>
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