Fw: Help (needed in Greece)
- To:
- Subject: Fw: Help (needed in Greece)
- From: S*
- Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 15:15:21 +0300
----- Original Message -----
From: Schmiege <schmiege@otenet.gr>
To: <theryans@xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: Help (needed in Greece)
> I went to the grape institute in Athens, Greece, Mr. Kanakis speaks
English,
> 281 6978 (new man is Mr. Michos Vassilias) and followed their program and
> had so many grapes I could not give enough away. Before following their
> program I did not get any grapes worth eating. The grape institute
imports
> grafted American stock, which we have and Mildew is a problem there also.
> It is another disease which the American root stock does not have. I am
> sorry but I do not remember the name, but it is the disease that wiped out
> the European stock years ago. If you have luck using the method mentioned
> below, I'd love to know about it. My grapes are hanging over my patio
which
> is outside my kitchen and livingroom. Not spraying and having that sticky
> mess years ago was a lesson well learned and now I spray 3 times and watch
> the grapes. If they appear to get any problems I take a leaf to the
> institute and follow their directions.
> L. Schmiege
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tony & Moira Ryan <theryans@xtra.co.nz>
> To: <sean.ohara@groupmail.com>
> Cc: Mediterannean Plants List <medit-plants@ucdavis.edu>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 12:36 PM
> Subject: Re: Help (needed in Greece)
>
>
> > "Sean A. O'Hara" wrote:
> > >
> > > At 11:11 AM 6/11/00 -0400, Martin Jones wrote:
> >
> > > >>Spraying the grapes against mildew so far has been restriced to
> benomyl,
> > > Is there anything better or more environmentally acceptable? Bordeaux
> > > mixture is less acceptable (more messy) as one must clear away all
> terrace
> > > furniture before spraying.
> > > Many thanks for any comments, Martin Jones.<<
> > >
> > > I understand that it is the European races of grapes that have mildew
> > > problems, American races being immune. Sulfur dust is usually
suggested
> > > here, an application when the shoots are about 6in (15cm) and then
every
> > > two weeks. The cause of your mildew might be overhead watering from a
> lawn
> > > or adjacent garden, poor air circulation, or too much shade (full
> blazing
> > > sun rarely sees mildew when the foliage is kept dry). Correcting
these
> > > problems (if possible) might help prevent mildew without the dusting
or
> > > spraying.
> >
> > Hi Sean and Martin
> > Sean is correct that sulphur is the fungicide for powdery mildew. It can
> > be had either as a dust or in a sprayable form.
> >
> > If you want to avoid much mess however why not try the home-made bicarb
> > spray for powdery mildew?
> >
> > This is made by adding 1 teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate and 1 teaspoon
> > cooking oil per litre of water. You will also need a couple of drops of
> > detergent to disperse the oil. Shake or stir and apply undiluted.
> > (Note, the penetration of any fungicide on the powdery mildew will be
> > greatly improved if the loose mass of spores on the surface is hosed off
> > just before spraying.)
> >
> > Bordeaux mixture (based on copper) has no effect on this fungus, though
> > it can be used for the very different downy mildew. In any case Bordeaux
> > is pretty well obsolete. If one needs a copper spray Copper Hydroxide
> > (sometimes known as "Kocide") would be my fungicide of choice, being
> > very simple to apply.
> >
> > Moira
> > --
> > Tony & Moira Ryan <theryans@xtra.co.nz>
> > Wainuiomata, New Zealand. (on the "Ring of Fire" in the SW Pacific).
> > Lat. 41:16S Long. 174:58E. Climate: Mediterranean/Temperate
> >
> >
>
