Re: Forceing Bulbs
- To: perennials@mallorn.com
- Subject: Re: Forceing Bulbs
- From: D* M*
- Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 13:01:17 -0800 (PST)
Let us consider the hardy bulbs first. They are
planted in the early fall in pots or bulb pans. Use
Potting Mixture 3,(See http://www.plantideas.com/)
omitting the cow manure, unless otherwise indicated
and plenty of drainage material. After the bulbs are
potted (instructions for potting are included with
description of species), they are ready for storing.
Storing is extremely important in the successful
culture of hardy bulbous house plants; indifference to
this essential step is responsible for many failures
in flowering. Hardy bulbs require a strong root
structure before top-growth is allowed to develop.
When planted outside in the garden, they develop roots
normally during the fall and winter. If they are to be
forced indoors, some substitute for the natural
root-developing period must be provided. This is
accomplished by burying the bulbs, pot and all, in
cold frames, trenches, or pits out of doors. Place the
pots on a layer of ashes and cover them to a depth of
6 inches to 1 foot with ashes or sand. After the bulbs
have been in storage for six or seven weeks, examine
the pots. If roots project through the drainage hole,
they are ready to be taken into the house. If no roots
show, let the pots remain buried for a week or two
longer (the relative rooting period is given in the
table of species). When several containers of tulips
or hyacinths are stored at the same time, the
additional pots may be brought into the house at
two-week intervals which will give a succession of
flowers. It will not injure the bulbs to leave them in
the ground in the meanwhile.
=====
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------
To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@mallorn.com with the
message text UNSUBSCRIBE PERENNIALS
